Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,015 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Corson on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

This is a real moderate trad climb suitable for beginner leaders. The difficult sections are the start and about mid way up but very well protected.

Start at a right facing corner behind a clump of trees(birch if I remember correctly). Climb this vertical section to gain the ledge above to begin traversing left. Follow this ledge or 'Ramp' to the left twenty feet. Then climb up to gain the second ramp which may be the crux of the climb if it's not the beginning. Leader should be aware even though he/she is a good distance off the ground that the ledgey nature of this route means a 'ground fall' is closer than the ground. Finish the climb by continuing up and left.

Location

From the 'Park Loop Road', there is a climbers trail just after the parking lot for Precipice. this route is on the first wall you encounter named 'Lower Wall' This route starts on 'Lower Wall Right' and ends on 'Lower Wall Right'.

Protection

Standard rack consisting of small to medium cams and nuts. I didn't have a need for to many nuts but they could be placed. There is NO rappel anchor for this route. The guide book suggest to climb over the 4th class section above this route to the granite stairs that lead to 'Precipice Right' area. [2016 NOTE: The present Guidebook states to "traverse up to the "Retlaw" double bolt anchor, which is what we did and lowered down to the ground. We had a 70m, but there was enought rope left I think an 60m would be OK also...KNOT YOUR ENDS..,"just in case". R Hall, ME Admin.] I didn't know this at the time and traversed way right to a tree on a ledge that had a rappel point already set up.

I didn't use any gear bigger than a #3 Camalot

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