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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest , The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: please help
Page Views: 5,356 total · 42/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

More classic stemming & laybacking! A terrific linkup with Old Town.

From the Old Town ledge, climb straight up through an awkward V-shaped slot to reach the clean, left-facing corner. Stem and layback your way to the top.

Location

[ NOTE - A Mid-Cliff START on the left end of the "Fingers Ledge" at the belay shared by "2nd belay of Precipice Ledges (5.4) " and "Finger's on a Seascape". R Hall, ME Admin.]


Located directly above the Old Town Ledge.

For more info, click here

Protection

Tiny to small cams and nuts. One piton. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.

Photos

Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.9
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.9
The pin was still there yesterday! Excellent stances for placing gear the whole way. If anything, the only spooky part is making the first few odd moves from the belay ledge before you get your first piece of gear. So so good, climbed it twice. Jun 16, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.9
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.9
The pin is still at the crux as of 9.13.14, although it doesn't matter: you can get gear anywhere you want. Stunning pitch, with great moves, gear, and reasonable stances, and one burly little crux. And, like so many Acadia routes, a jug awaits. One of the best things about Acadia is that if you can get yourself to the top of this part of the cliff (e.g., via Story of O, perhaps) and you're a middle-aged guy who doesn't train or get out enough anymore (like me), you can just wander around dropping the rope down so many great last pitches: this route, Michael's Pin, Birch Aid, Emigrant Crack, Chitlin Corner, Green Mt., Sea Gypsy, etc. It's a .9/.10 mileage bonanza! Sep 15, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Congrats, you certainly chose some of the finest to get started on Acadia! I really enjoyed the location of and scenery from this route. I am almost sure it was my 1st 5.9 trad lead too many years ago so it is also special to me in that way.

Old Town was very busy the day I decided to get on this route so I did P1 of Gunklandia, then a little scramble/runout to the left on easy ground in order to get to the start of RTF. A little sneaky but I got the job done! :) Aug 16, 2011
Michael Z.  
 
Wow Fabulous! Linked up with Old Town for my first route at Acadia, So Good! Aug 16, 2011
Andrew Mertens
Berkeley, CA
 
Andrew Mertens   Berkeley, CA
 
The pin's there as of 6-24-10. Jun 30, 2010
afh
Portland, OR
 
afh   Portland, OR
 
The pin is gone. Plenty of other protection possibilities. Apr 6, 2010
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
  5.9+
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
  5.9+
What a great route.... agreed with Mr. Fienup, there are some slightly devious/tricky moves, but great pro [small cams and rp's], beatuful rock, and fantastic location make this one of the best routes I have done anywhere for it's grade. Very highly reccomended!! Sep 28, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
After climbing both Emigrant Crack (5.10b) and Connecticut Crack (5.11a) clean, this one still spit me out of the crux dihedral. Additionally, gear was strenuous to place.

Do not underestimate this route given the modest grade. Jul 25, 2007