Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: please help
Page Views: 5,854 total · 42/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

More classic stemming & laybacking! A terrific linkup with Old Town.

From the Old Town ledge, climb straight up through an awkward V-shaped slot to reach the clean, left-facing corner. Stem and layback your way to the top.

Location

[ NOTE - A Mid-Cliff START on the left end of the "Fingers Ledge" at the belay shared by "2nd belay of Precipice Ledges (5.4) " and "Finger's on a Seascape". R Hall, ME Admin.]

Located directly above the Old Town Ledge.

For more info, click here

Protection

Tiny to small cams and nuts. One piton. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9
After climbing both Emigrant Crack (5.10b) and Connecticut Crack (5.11a) clean, this one still spit me out of the crux dihedral. Additionally, gear was strenuous to place.

Do not underestimate this route given the modest grade. Jul 25, 2007
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
  5.9+
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
  5.9+
What a great route.... agreed with Mr. Fienup, there are some slightly devious/tricky moves, but great pro [small cams and rp's], beatuful rock, and fantastic location make this one of the best routes I have done anywhere for it's grade. Very highly reccomended!! Sep 28, 2009
afh Horovitz
Portland, OR
 
afh Horovitz   Portland, OR
 
The pin is gone. Plenty of other protection possibilities. Apr 6, 2010
Andrew Mertens
Fort Collins
 
Andrew Mertens   Fort Collins
 
The pin's there as of 6-24-10. Jun 30, 2010
Michael Z.  
 
Wow Fabulous! Linked up with Old Town for my first route at Acadia, So Good! Aug 16, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Congrats, you certainly chose some of the finest to get started on Acadia! I really enjoyed the location of and scenery from this route. I am almost sure it was my 1st 5.9 trad lead too many years ago so it is also special to me in that way.

Old Town was very busy the day I decided to get on this route so I did P1 of Gunklandia, then a little scramble/runout to the left on easy ground in order to get to the start of RTF. A little sneaky but I got the job done! :) Aug 16, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
  5.9
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
  5.9
The pin is still at the crux as of 9.13.14, although it doesn't matter: you can get gear anywhere you want. Stunning pitch, with great moves, gear, and reasonable stances, and one burly little crux. And, like so many Acadia routes, a jug awaits. One of the best things about Acadia is that if you can get yourself to the top of this part of the cliff (e.g., via Story of O, perhaps) and you're a middle-aged guy who doesn't train or get out enough anymore (like me), you can just wander around dropping the rope down so many great last pitches: this route, Michael's Pin, Birch Aid, Emigrant Crack, Chitlin Corner, Green Mt., Sea Gypsy, etc. It's a .9/.10 mileage bonanza! Sep 15, 2014
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.9
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.9
The pin was still there yesterday! Excellent stances for placing gear the whole way. If anything, the only spooky part is making the first few odd moves from the belay ledge before you get your first piece of gear. So so good, climbed it twice. Jun 16, 2015
Coreshot Copp
  5.9- PG13
Coreshot Copp  
  5.9- PG13
Beware of getting into the dihedral, it gets iffy for a second. The top of this climb is some of the best liebacking in the universe. Dec 21, 2018