Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,133 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010 with updates from JSH
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details


The direct itself is a short (15 feet) set of unprotected face moves at 5.9 that ascend to and join the main GL crack at its first horizontal break.

It is not "some discontinuous finger cracks that lead up to GL proper" as previously described here -- that IS Gunklandia.

See COMMENT by Peter Lewis. Most "old" climbs were, and still are, purposefully "sandbagged" as explained in the current guidebook.


A great resource for this whole area is Acadia, by Jeff Butterfield.


Pretty unprotected


Dustin Lagoy
Southern CA
Dustin Lagoy   Southern CA
From my understanding (but I could be mistaken) this is the actual Gunklandia line. [Maine Admin. comment: Correct ! R.Hall] The 5.9 variation is to the first pitch and not here. IMO the short chimney is not as hard as 5.9. Also, using just the crack on the right side of the corner is Emigrant Crack (5.10b). Jun 10, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
You're right, Dustin; this is the regular second pitch of Gunklandia (and at 5.7 is quite the nice little sandbag). No, it may not be 5.9, but it's close. The "Direct" variation is the discontinous finger crack about ten feet right of the normal start that goes for 20 feet before joining the regular route. It's barely 5.9 and kind of a two-move wonder. Sep 12, 2011