Gunklandia Direct Variation
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 15 votes
Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Tempest , The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,021 total, 21/month |
Shared By: | Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010 |
Admins: | Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
The direct itself is a short (15 feet) set of unprotected face moves at 5.9 that ascend to and join the main GL crack at its first horizontal break.It is not "some discontinuous finger cracks that lead up to GL proper" as previously described here -- that IS Gunklandia.
See COMMENT by Peter Lewis. Most "old" climbs were, and still are, purposefully "sandbagged" as explained in the current guidebook.
Photos
2 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Bridgton, Maine
Southern CA