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Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bilge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Conan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mowgli T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pirates of Penzance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Precipice aka The South Wall | 2717, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Schooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wagger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Grade II |
| GPS: | 44.34691, -68.19013 |
| FA: | Tom McCormack |
| Page Views: | 296 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Sep 10, 2023 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
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Description
A long a varied pitch, providing a lot of independent, moderate climbing, joining Standard Route just below the big corner. The book calls this R, but I found it to be more PG - PG13. There is gear where you need it, but not wherever you want, and sometimes a placement is not obvious until your hand is right next to it.
Start just right of Fear Of Flying, and left of a large boulder. Climb low angle, dirty rock, up to a low roof (hidden pin out left). Stand up high and get in a shallow, finger sized piece. Pull over the small bulge on funky holds, then start up a long section of low angle face climbing on a blunt arete. Fun moves between cracks, flakes and jugs, with hidden gear placements, leads to a ledge. Clip a bolt out right and join Standard Route. Climb the corner and belay at a horn/finger crack below the final chimney of Standard Route.
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