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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: please help
Page Views: 11,611 total · 85/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.

Matthew Fienup:

Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks.

Protection

I use some med nuts, 2 #2BD camalots, and some mid range cams for pro. I think you could use all small stuff but with the #2s it makes protecting ledge fall a breeze.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
For help locating the start of the route, click here Jul 25, 2007
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
  5.7
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
  5.7
A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless. Feb 22, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.7
Derek Doucet  
  5.7
Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route! Jul 9, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.7
Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer! May 14, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.8-
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.8-
Don't underestimate the first 20 feet--it's a little awkward and strenuous. Please take the time to protect the start well. After that, it's just cruising wonderfulness. Oct 7, 2011
I believe the FA of this wonderful climb goes to Jerry Cinnamon... May 31, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Odd, awkward start, leads to awesome fun climbing. The rock is amazing, the flakes are amazing, it's all good. May 27, 2015
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
 
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
 
I think that this is the best 5.7 I've done anywhere. It is a strikingly beautiful and looks like it would go at 5.10 but is delightfully moderate! It's an absolute must-do.

I watched many groups climb it over a few days that I spent at the Precipice and did note that less experienced followers tended to fall on the first move or two so a tight belay is necessary to keep them from clipping the ground. Jul 10, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
It doesn't get much better than this, at the grade. A little stiff perhaps, in that old school kinda way. Newer 5.7 leaders might be a little freaked. Such high quality! Jul 25, 2018
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
 
Fun stuff. Seemed a bit more cruxy than the average 5.7? Aug 20, 2018

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