Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: please help
Page Views: 11,774 total · 84/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


196 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.

Matthew Fienup:

Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks.

Protection

I use some med nuts, 2 #2BD camalots, and some mid range cams for pro. I think you could use all small stuff but with the #2s it makes protecting ledge fall a breeze.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
For help locating the start of the route, click here Jul 25, 2007
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
  5.7
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
  5.7
A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless. Feb 22, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.7
Derek Doucet  
  5.7
Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route! Jul 9, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.7
Sweet route, crux is the first few moves, everything else is cruiser. If it were only longer! May 14, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
  5.8-
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
  5.8-
Don't underestimate the first 20 feet--it's a little awkward and strenuous. Please take the time to protect the start well. After that, it's just cruising wonderfulness. Oct 7, 2011
I believe the FA of this wonderful climb goes to Jerry Cinnamon... May 31, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Odd, awkward start, leads to awesome fun climbing. The rock is amazing, the flakes are amazing, it's all good. May 27, 2015
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
 
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
 
I think that this is the best 5.7 I've done anywhere. It is a strikingly beautiful and looks like it would go at 5.10 but is delightfully moderate! It's an absolute must-do.

I watched many groups climb it over a few days that I spent at the Precipice and did note that less experienced followers tended to fall on the first move or two so a tight belay is necessary to keep them from clipping the ground. Jul 10, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
It doesn't get much better than this, at the grade. A little stiff perhaps, in that old school kinda way. Newer 5.7 leaders might be a little freaked. Such high quality! Jul 25, 2018
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
 
Fun stuff. Seemed a bit more cruxy than the average 5.7? Aug 20, 2018