Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: ? (Guide book gives no credit)
Page Views: 3,385 total · 37/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Aug 14, 2011 with updates from jessie briggs
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Start 20 feet right of Story of O, follow a grove into a slot then up to the roof. Pull out the roof on the left and into the crack above. Super fun!

Amazing finger crack off the 1st pitch ledge of The Story of O
-Place gear at any point
-Great movement
-if only it were as long as Chitlins Corner :/

Location

obvious and perfect finger crack on the head wall right of the second pitch for Story of O
(at top of P1 look right...can't miss it)

Protection

Micro to Finger
-Mid size at top and bottom (if you Really want to sew it up)

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
This climb is actually independent, starting to the right of the Story of O. It scrambles up some ledges with surprisingly fun jamming to a roof that is skirted to the left with a couple of thin face moves to establish in an awesome finger crack. A couple of reachy moves between locks gets you into a solid splitter that tops out at the first pitch belay of Story of O. You can stop here and make it two pitches, or continue up the gorgeous crack you mentioned and then left to the rappel anchors. Just climbing the short crack at the top would make you miss the definitive crux, and a lot of high quality climbing. Aug 6, 2012
So how high is this climb? It states on the page that it's 20'. Is that a misprint, or is this just a highball boulder problem? Thanks! Jul 19, 2013
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Excellent climb. Small stoppers and black-blue aliens sews up the crux really well. Be sure to save a finger-small hand size piece for the splitter! Jun 25, 2017