Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,233 total · 24/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

On the right side of the Precipice, just before you encounter the stairs is an obvious open book dihedral. The start is just left of an obvious short roof crack called Small Crack Warning (5.11d). Climb the dihedral (5.10) to its end and belay on the right. Traverse left to a very thin and flared finger crack. Optional belay here. Tricky small pro and a technical crux climbing the crack past a steep swell leads to easier climbing.

Protection

Standard rack with RPs, etc

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
This was Jeff Achey ? f/a Fine route. Jan 7, 2009
Derek Doucet
  5.11c
Derek Doucet  
  5.11c
A fun 5.10a or b pitch gets things off to a promising start. The second pitch consists of lots of pleasant, easy climbing interrupted by a 15' boulder problem crux. While this section is very nice indeed, the route is not at all sustained, and did not live up to its billing in my opinion. The crux is certainly stout, and modestly spicy as well, but is so out of character with the rest of the route that the overall experience is not especially satisfying. Selfless Bastard is more sustained (though not by much) and only a little easier, and is probably a better route for those interested in South Wall 5.11s. For that matter, High Wire is more sustained than either! Still, Maniacal is a fun outing and certainly worth climbing. Jul 9, 2010