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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Doug Madara, Casey Newman & Jeff Butterfield mid-1970's
Page Views: 7,436 total · 54/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

The route follows a series of discontinuous finger cracks.
Delicate footwork marks the crux of the rotue as you traverse left to right between cracks.

Location

Several meters left of "Old Town" and immediately left of "London Bridges." Look for the obvious, discontinuous cracks (like the claw marks of a house-sized cat).

For additional info, click here

Protection

Tiny and small nuts & cams up to 2-in for the finishing crack.
2-Bolt top anchor with rappel rings.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.11a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.11a
While not regarded as being as classic as "Old Town" or other nearby routes, "Connecticut Crack" was the most memorable climb at the Precipice on a day when we climbed more than half a dozen routes. It remains one of my favorite routes to date.

Don't miss this one! Jul 25, 2007
Michael Buchanan
  5.10+
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10+
This thing is sweet! The changeover is some awesome 6-12 feet of really really fun climbing. This route has a nice rest ledge before the business, so up and down climbing to place pro is a breeeeze. May 14, 2011
Michael Z.  
 
I think the name is Connecticut Cracks with an S, Cracks, as there are a series of discontinuous cracks.

Anyway this is a fine route, if this is your limit get on it and take some falls, I did. After all you drove all that way. Aug 16, 2011
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I'm almost positive that the f/a was jeff Achey Aug 16, 2011
Madera, not sure when. Mar 25, 2014
Link it to Fingers on a Seascape, then the last pitch of Return to Forever and you have a stellar 2-3 pitch route! Nov 19, 2014
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
  5.11a
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
  5.11a
So good! Stout couple of moves there with some hard smearing. I thought all of the climbing up to there and then after was way easier, but suuupaah fun as well. Green alien before the crux is bomber. Jun 16, 2015
PJ Benson
Jackson, NH
PJ Benson   Jackson, NH
Is this anything like Airation over at Cathedral? Jul 14, 2016
Derek Doucet
  5.11-
Derek Doucet  
  5.11-
Not really, no. Airation is quite a bit steeper and more sustained, but has better locks. Ct. Cracks is a just a couple of smeary insecure moves at the crux with easier (but quality) climbing above and below. Jul 18, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Got on this today, and it is a great route to take some falls on. Bomber nut placements right where you want them to be. Fun to work. I didn't get it, so it will have to wait until next time. Aug 25, 2016
Ramona Filipi
Medford, mA
 
Ramona Filipi   Medford, mA
 
Another year, another fall. But it's such a great climb I don't mind having to come back to send it. Next year! Aug 13, 2017
jessie briggs
  5.10c
jessie briggs  
  5.10c
After doing this one a number of times, it feels no harder than .10c. Take for instance, the crux of Right Mel Crack in J Tree, which has a similar off balance flared jam reach. Similar in difficulty and style. This one is soft for sure. May 27, 2018

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