Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest , The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,566 total, 59/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


53 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Gunklandia is a local classic, with 3 fun pitches and a little bit of spice at the end. It starts a little down hill from old town.

The first two pitches are commonly combined into one and follow an easy corner system and crack to a spacious belay ledge with rap anchors. From here up and to the right takes you to a bomb bay chimney which puts the sting in the tail of this scorpion.

Have fun.
- - - - -- - - - - - - - - -

[Maine Admin. note: The "Direct" variation ( 15 ft of unprotected 5.9 on P1) probably should be listed here as only a variation, but it has it's own route listing. R Hall. If anyone has a photo of someone climbing it it would be greatly appreciated if you posted it. I will make it the "lead" photo for the "Direct". ]

Location

The dead log mentioned in the guidebook is no longer there. Location should read: Directly above granite steps, at a pair of striking orange cracks, 40' downhill from Old Town.


Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.

Protection

Small and medium nuts.
Ryan Murphy 18
maine (bar harbor)
  5.8
Ryan Murphy 18   maine (bar harbor)
  5.8
I didn't have very much fun on this one. The rock quality is not awesome near the top and felt pretty sandbagged, also not a big fan of that big moving flake. Oct 12, 2016
Justin Irving
  5.7+
Justin Irving  
  5.7+
Great climb, found the wider crack section after the optional pitch 1 belay tricky as well, and there's a somewhat loose large piece of rock in that section that got the blood flowing. Sep 26, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Hey guys...read the guidebook. Your have to put 2 & 2 together since there's two references, but in the first ref. (on the page by the writer of the first guidebook to the area) it is explained that (to paraphrase) " I rated the climbs one or two grades lower so that when the "gunkies" showed up they'd get burned". Then on another page, the current guidebook author states "I've pretty much kept the originally assigned grades". Now, since "gunkies" are kind of famous for doing poorly on cracks, what do you think they'd do with the ratings of a crack climb named "Gunklandia"?! eh?

So...if the route is old, or if it's new and the FA-ers were "locals" you can pretty much be sure it's "sandbagged" by today's terminology! Aug 3, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
Yeah, um, that last pitch chimney---such a little sandbag...if this is 5.7, then the second pitch of Chitlin is 5.8. (Hint: none of this is right.) Expect to be spanked. First pitch (or two, depending on how you do it), is wonderful and true to the grade; the direct start is an awesome two-move wonder. Oct 30, 2014
Derek Doucet
  5.7
Derek Doucet  
  5.7
No, the Chimney is not Gunklandia Direct. It is the last pitch of Gunklandia. Gunklandia direct is a variation on the first pitch, starting about 20' of the standard start. Oct 19, 2011
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
5.9-
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
5.9-
agreed, the short chimney section was awkward and felt more like a 5.9 Aug 26, 2011
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
I'm confused. Is the pitch 3 chimney part of this route or is that what they call Gunklandia direct?

Anyways the chimney is harder than 5.7. like GMburns said Apr 25, 2011
I climbed this route a few weeks ago as well. I felt that the the moves off the ground were quite trivial, but I got smacked around trying to gain the wide crack off the optional pitch one belay ledge. Pitch two (or three) follows a wonderful tradition of New England sandbagging. Overall Gunklandia is great route that left me more than a little humble.....I hung on 5.7 :) Oct 2, 2010
GMBurns
  5.9-
GMBurns  
  5.9-
P3 felt WAY harder than 5.7. Not sure if it was the correct place to go, but we did the crack in the corner, between the 5.9 flake above us to the left and the 10ish crack on the face to the right. Sep 21, 2010