Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,756 total · 62/month
Shared By: Jonathan S on Feb 22, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Gunklandia is a local classic, with 3 fun pitches and a little bit of spice at the end. It starts a little down hill from old town.

The first two pitches are commonly combined into one and follow an easy corner system and crack to a spacious belay ledge with rap anchors. From here up and to the right takes you to a bomb bay chimney which puts the sting in the tail of this scorpion.

Have fun.

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[Maine Admin. note: The "Direct" variation ( 15 ft of unprotected 5.9 on P1) starts on cracks about 10 ft to the right of the regular route (photo).  R Hall. If anyone has a photo of someone climbing it it would be greatly appreciated if you posted it. ]

Start of Gunklandia -- discontinuous orange cracks in a gray face. The Direct start is also visible on the right side of the photo.

Location Suggest change

The dead log mentioned in the guidebook is no longer there. Location should read: Directly above granite steps, at a pair of striking orange cracks, 40' downhill from Old Town.

Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.

Protection Suggest change

Small and medium nuts.

DESCENT- see COMMENTs about descent, seems a single 70m will make it off the “lower anchors”

Photos

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