Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,747 total · 63/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Gunklandia is a local classic, with 3 fun pitches and a little bit of spice at the end. It starts a little down hill from old town.

The first two pitches are commonly combined into one and follow an easy corner system and crack to a spacious belay ledge with rap anchors. From here up and to the right takes you to a bomb bay chimney which puts the sting in the tail of this scorpion.

Have fun.
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[Maine Admin. note: The "Direct" variation ( 15 ft of unprotected 5.9 on P1) probably should be listed here as only a variation, but it has it's own route listing. R Hall. If anyone has a photo of someone climbing it it would be greatly appreciated if you posted it. I will make it the "lead" photo for the "Direct". ]

Location

The dead log mentioned in the guidebook is no longer there. Location should read: Directly above granite steps, at a pair of striking orange cracks, 40' downhill from Old Town.

Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.

Protection

Small and medium nuts.

DESCENT- see COMMENTs about descent, seems a single 70m will make it off the “lower anchors”

Photos