Avg: 2.9 from 53 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||5,672 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionGunklandia is a local classic, with 3 fun pitches and a little bit of spice at the end. It starts a little down hill from old town.
The first two pitches are commonly combined into one and follow an easy corner system and crack to a spacious belay ledge with rap anchors. From here up and to the right takes you to a bomb bay chimney which puts the sting in the tail of this scorpion.
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[Maine Admin. note: The "Direct" variation ( 15 ft of unprotected 5.9 on P1) probably should be listed here as only a variation, but it has it's own route listing. R Hall. If anyone has a photo of someone climbing it it would be greatly appreciated if you posted it. I will make it the "lead" photo for the "Direct". ]
LocationThe dead log mentioned in the guidebook is no longer there. Location should read: Directly above granite steps, at a pair of striking orange cracks, 40' downhill from Old Town.
Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.