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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Alcove / Central Slab / Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Band of Gypsies (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bilge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Conan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dancing Gypsy (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Eclipse (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fat Back Crack (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Impalpable Cracks (Mid Cliff Start) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mowgli T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pirates of Penzance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Popeye’s Arete (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Precipice aka The South Wall | 2717, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scaramouche (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Schooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Selfless Bastard (Mid Cliff Start) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Star Face Mole (Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wagger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 44.34691, -68.19013 |
| FA: | Jeff Butterfield, late 1980s |
| Page Views: | 148 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Aug 29, 2025 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
Just about the most “out there” you can get 2 pitches off the ground, Schooner is an action packed moderate hidden amongst the mysterious the Boys From Bangor wall. Approach as for BFB, by hiking up to Midnight Delight 5.7, then traversing right on the flake ledge to a precarious step across. Rack up on this ledge and clove your belayer in. The first pitch follows a crack that’s just left of Adrift (route with the bolt).
Pitch 1: Layback and mantle out left as for Boys From Bangor 5.7, then step right on a slab to the base of the obvious finger crack. Good locks with tenuous feet lead to a big flare. Burly laybacking up the flare gets you to the big ledge with a 2 bolt belay, shared by all other routes in the area. 5.8
Pitch 2: If the first pitch felt adventurous, get ready for a wild ride on this one… Step off the belay and traverse low on the slab. The original route went straight up at 5.8 R. To keep it better protected, take the 5.7 variation described below. continue to traverse right until you reach the arete. The moves are no harder than 5.5, but it feels really heady. Just as you feel impossibly far from the anchor, pull around the corner and arrive at a beautiful sight, gear and jugs! Fun moves on big flakes gain a stance on the arete beneath glorious double cracks. Follow these to a ledge then continue up the arete following the path of least resistance. Just as you think you’re about to run out of options again, a splitter crack on the arete reveals itself! Mantle into the cranberries and step left to the 2 bolt belay of Boys From Bangor. 5.7 PG13
Rap twice with a single 60m.
Location
This starts of the Boys From Bangor Ledge. A ledge reached by hiking all the way to the left to Midnight Delight, then following a traversing ledge system to the right. Once on the ledge, Schooner is the crack between Adrift (route on the face with the lone bolt) and Boys From Bangor Pitch 1 (right facing corner on the next ledge up to the left).
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