Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,602 total · 70/month
Shared By: Ladd on Sep 30, 2007 with updates from wonderwoman and 1 other
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

A very long corner. This pitch is super classic even thought it has some preamble to it that isn't very fun. Start up the blocky finish, gain the rambling wavy corner and enjoy it to the top. Sometimes the last move to the anchor can be pretty wet.

The first time I was on this climb I was just learning how to trad climb and I placed well over 18 pieces of gear, the next time I was on it I placed 8.

The second pitch is a stiff and thin 5.10a that traverses under a roof.

[ Admin. NOTE: First pitch is a long nice 5.7 pitch that goes to a small ledge and anchor. R Hall, from a suggestion by R Birk]

Location

The big left facing corner left of Conneticut Cracks, Old Town, and London Bridges.

Protection

Gig stnd. rack, lots of runners.
wonderwoman  
 
Why is this showing as a 5.7? Jan 9, 2009
probably because the contributor only described the 1st pitch, but he did say the 2nd pitch goes at 5.10 Jan 17, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
FFA.of the full climb.. Doug Madera Paul Ross 1970's Jan 25, 2009
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
  5.10
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
  5.10
The second pitch is indeed 5.10, and it's wonderful. The 5.10 crux is, well, not where you think it will be. I remember leading this pitch in 1983 with nothing but straight-sided stoppers and hexes---my palms are sweating while I type this. Bring little cams and don't miss this pitch! Sep 1, 2010
Michael Z.  
 
Sometimes you climb a feature that's just so nice but only 20 feet long. Chlitlin Corner at around 200 feet may still leave you wanting more, but you can't say its too short! Aug 16, 2011
Josh Squire
East Boston, MA
Josh Squire   East Boston, MA
Second pitch is 10a, not 10c, and is great. Actually everything on this wall is great. Aug 29, 2011
Nick K
Somerville, MA
  5.10a
Nick K   Somerville, MA
  5.10a
Definitely do the second pitch. The first pitch is a fun cruise, the second pitch is a delight. The rap off is a little awkward going from the P1 anchors to the intermediate anchors out and climber's left. You could avoid this with a double rope rap, but we got off with three single (60m) rope raps. Apr 13, 2013
Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
 
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
 
Rapping with double 60s gets you all the way to the ground in one go, and by choosing where to drop back into the corner, you can avoid crowding other climbers and clogging up the intermediate belays. Plus it's a lot faster. May 27, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
very fun, long corner climb. sustained. I guess there was a single crux, but it felt sustained most of the way. There were plenty of nice rest stances. The climb eats gear. May 27, 2015
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
The second pitch is short but good. 10a seems fair, despite how it looks!

I was more nervous on the easier part leading up to the traverse---the gear was a little tricky and the flakes there a little hollow.

I rapped the route with double 60s to the ground, but I would recommend cowboy coils and staying climber's right to avoid dropping back into the corner; besides the obvious rapping-onto-crowded-classics problem, the ropes got snagged multiple times on jugs on Green Mountain Breakdown, which was a PITA to fix. Jun 18, 2015
Only climbed first pitch and it was great. If 5.7 is close to your limit make sure to save some gear for the top as I found the last moves before the anchor to be the crux. Sep 26, 2016
jessie briggs
  5.10a
jessie briggs  
  5.10a
Doubles in the .75 Camalot size will make you happy on the second pitch May 14, 2018