Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,482 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Sep 30, 2007
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Enjoyable climbing on the second pitch more than makes up for the bad first pitch and it's weird body positions an gear.

P1: Start up the route from just behind the boulder and make awkward moves up to a pin, clip it and make a traverse move right (crux) place a piece and grovel into the chimney. Pull the flaring chimney and setup an anchor, either use the horn backed up or the crack.

P2: Stem, Layback, or straight on your way up the short WIDE chimney, it is very classic and unforgettable. clip the pin at the top and traverse 20' right to a rap station and belay up your second.

2 60m ropes reach the ground.

Location

This climb can be found where the approach trail comes to a fork, locate the big boulder right in front of you, the route starts from behind the boulder and ascends the obvious broken easy 5th class ramp.

Protection

Full rack to #4(2nd pitch needs big gear#2-#4)

1 pin on the 1st pitch.

Photos

redpoint robby
Dover, NH
redpoint robby   Dover, NH
Warning: A friend of mine was traversing through the crux and pulled a little too hard on that key hold (upside down triangle/pinch thing) on the face and it ripped out. A 20 (or so) pound block came out with it and tumbled to the ground. There were no injuries but what is left is kind of a big sloping pocket making the move substantially more difficult than 5.6. We didn't have a chance to get back on it so I am unsure of a true rating. Any feedback on the rating is welcome. Apr 28, 2010
gio92
Bend, OR
 
gio92   Bend, OR
 
I disagree that you need the #4, but you could place it if you wanted. Definitely make sure you have .75-3 camalots or equivalent on the second pitch though. The first pitch is interesting, I thought the dihedral right below the belay was fun, but not half as good as the second pitch. Sep 4, 2012
sclair
SLC, Ut
sclair   SLC, Ut
I second that need for .75-3. I had none, they were on the anchor, and I really wanted them. The 2nd pitch makes this worth it, with really interesting stemming for the 5' climber! Jun 22, 2013
Barrett Stetson  
  5.6
P1 - Blocky move up to traverse move. Traverse move looks harder until you start to try it, then really not bad with a small layback. Exiting dihedral above was harder I thought, not sure if people climb the big sketchy block on right instead sometimes?
P2 - A little awkward at parts, layback to stem, repeat. Had to be careful not to place cams where they could walk into deep cracks.

Overall not a bad climb, protection was all there (didn't need #4, but wouldn't have hurt to have it either), but nowhere near as good of quality as Story of O. Sep 6, 2014
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
The P1 traverse felt a tad spicy until I looked around carefully. It's all there.

We rapped with a 60m and could not find the intermediate station. It must be way, way right and out of sight. Don't go over the sloping drop-off without a 70m or you may get stuck in serious territory. Sep 12, 2016