Type: Trad, TR, Grade II
GPS: 44.34691, -68.19013
FA: Jeff Butterfield, 1980s
Page Views: 109 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Jun 14, 2024
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

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Description Suggest change

A very fun pseudo-crack climb with tricky protection. Start at the ledge below Boys from Bangor, this can be accessed by hiking up the hill to the base of Midnight Delight, then hiking right across a ledge. Make a tricky step right and you’ll be at the base of a clean line, with an obvious bolt and pin. This is Adrift (Boys from Bangor is to the left on the next ledge up).
Start by climbing off the ledge via a few tricky moves, eventually reaching good slopers/jugs. Pull over onto the next ledge. Getting to the bolt is a spicy affair, involving good side pulls and a high foot. It is possible to place gear out left in pitch 1 of Schooner to protect the moves. Clip the bolt and make face climbing moves past a pin, the pin is a time bomb but the climbing gets easier above it. Make a few more moves to gain a finger crack, follow this more easily to the bolted belay of Boys from Bangor.

Location Suggest change

Before doing the mantle left to Boys from Bangor, you will see the bolt and the pin below a steep finger crack.

Protection Suggest change

Gear from 0.2 to 0.4, double 0.3 helpful. One good bolt and one janky pin. The hardest moves are protected but there is certainly difficult climbing decently above the bolt. Can easily be top roped after climbing pitch 1 of Boys From Bangor or The Reach.

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