Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Parrott & Jeff Butterfield
Page Views: 3,658 total · 29/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Jun 5, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Start left of the Trotsky Corner at a thin seam with pins. Climb up this seam until it ends and fire the shield above. Another brilliant Bob Parrott Route.

Location

[NOTE: In the new guidebook this climb is in the area referred to as the "Alcove".]

Small seam left of Trotsky corner

Protection

Pins, Small cams, wires

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Bob will be psyched to see this at 12B. I think was 11C when I did it.Anyway a real good route with great pro. Jan 7, 2009
i dont remeber 11c when i did it back in 90. i thought it was graded 12c then...but its one of my favorite routes anywhere!! Apr 21, 2009
Hilarious. I've always heard it called .12a. It's certainly considerably harder than High Wire, which is probably .11bish, no? Jul 1, 2010
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
This is such a great route. Pins are solid, I tested a few of them, especially the one at the crux ;-) Jul 3, 2012
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Stout Crux! Such a fun line! Sep 9, 2012
Cody S
  5.12a/b
Cody S  
  5.12a/b
Beautiful line but there were a few spots I felt like I was fighting the draw and/or rope to use certain holds. I skipped placing a draw at the second to last pin because of this. The pins felt solid. Easy terrain (~5.6) with good pro after the pins end. Jun 26, 2018
jessie briggs
  5.12b
jessie briggs  
  5.12b
This one took a lot of effort to send. A really cool granite “sport” climb. There is beta for the crux that avoids the holds that get blocked by the draw on the 5th pin, so you can still clip it and do the climb at the grade. Felt like a V4/5 boulder problem to me. Nov 8, 2018