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The Precipice aka The South Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bilge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Conan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mowgli T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pirates of Penzance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Precipice aka The South Wall | 2717, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Schooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wagger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Elevation: | 382 ft | 116 m |
| GPS: |
44.34691, -68.19013 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 225,845 total · 980/month | |
| Shared By: | Brett Butera on Mar 10, 2007 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Precipice aka South Wall is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs Old Town (5.7) and Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: The Story of O (5.6), Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+), and Chitlins Corner (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, Rock Climbs of Acadia by Grant Simmons and is available at Alpenglow Adventure Sports on Main Street in Bar Harbor. The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although many of the single pitch climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Peregrine closures only affect a few routes right of Wafer Step which are generally not done anyway. Current closures and conditions on the NPS site: http://www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/trailclosures.htm
Getting There
Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.
Parking is extremely limited here, especially in summer. Consider parking outside the park and biking or taking the shuttle.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Precipice aka The South Wall
Sun Angles Details:
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