Elevation: 382 ft
GPS: 44.347, -68.19 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 152,621 total · 934/month
Shared By: Brett Butera on Mar 10, 2007 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

The Precipice aka South Wall is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs Old Town (5.7) and Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: The Story of O (5.6), Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+), and Chitlins Corner (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, Rock Climbs of Acadia by Grant Simmons and is available at Alpenglow Adventure Sports on Main Street in Bar Harbor. The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although many of the single pitch climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Peregrine closures only affect a few routes right of Wafer Step which are generally not done anyway. Current closures and conditions on the NPS site: http://www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/trailclosures.htm 

Getting There

Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.

Parking is extremely limited here, especially in summer. Consider parking outside the park and biking or taking the shuttle.

68 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Precipice aka The South Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 160
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 211
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 80
Gunklandia
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Ce…
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 229
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 124
Recollections of Pacifica -(Cent…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
Chicken of the Sea
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 54
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 60
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-clif…
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 107
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
 160
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O
 211
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Gunklandia
 80
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge…
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Old Town
 229
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c…
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -…
 124
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Chicken of the Sea
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff ST…
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Green Mt. Breakdown
 54
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chitlin's Corner
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Emigrant Crack - (mid-clif…
 49
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fingers in a Seascape (mid…
 60
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Connecticut Cracks
 107
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
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