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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest , The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 884 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Fun route with neat traversing to the left to keep the grade modest.

Step up on the ramp (could be slick...take care) and sink the fingers into the flake over the roof. Place a bomber cam or two, maybe a nut, then pop the roof to a nice stance. Step left. Float up the easy section of Russian Revolution then again step left to avoid the finish of that route. Milk the arête for some fun and stimulating finish moves which look hard but aren't too sassy.

A long sling on pro at the moves left will nearly eliminate rope drag.

The pin on the upper crack of Russian Revolution could be clipped if need be. Long sling keeps the drag down here too.

There's a bit of a lack of gear on the upper arête prior to the top out so take care and get good gear prior to launch.

Great finish position on the final arête!

Location

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

Located to the left of the 12' spike of rock at the base of Recollections of Pacifica.

Locate a small overhang topped with a rectangular flake.

Belay from tree and crack (takes cams) atop route, then, traverse to climber's right to fixed anchor for Wafer Step/Recollections for the git down.

Protection

Trad rack from small cams to a 2 or 3 Camalot (or equivalent) and a set of nuts.

Photos

A great climb! This renewed my interest in select slab climbs.

Please heed the following sentence from the description above:

There's a bit of a lack of gear on the upper arête prior to the top out so take care and get good gear prior to launch.

I didn't place so well initially, and then thought better of it and placed a second piece as backup. I believe the issue was that my hand was in the better of two pockets for the placing stance which also is likely the better gear pocket.

Be advised that in the 2015 Grant Simmons guide book, the topography picture can give one the impression that the start is further right than it really is as the start of the next route over, Recollections of Pacifica is not is not shown in the topography. Recollections of Pacifica has a very distinctive vertical fin sticking up that the belayer can lean against. Madam LeBois has a flat stone bench just below the route picture shown here that is accurate.

Enjoy the lunge and be safe about it! :)

Edit: There is also a new bolted anchor that is between Madam LeBois and Recollections of Pacifica that is not in the guide book. So you potentially have two choices to walk over and rappel to. Guides seem to like top roping clients on Wafer Step so it makes sense that this got added as a way to rappel off the climb. Aug 15, 2017
june m
elmore ,vt
june m   elmore ,vt
The lunge is really special is you are short Jul 6, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
very fun climb. Seemed harder than a 6. At points, it looks hard, but, if you move carefully, you will find big holds and great moves. Lots of fun, worth doing. Protects well. May 27, 2015
I'd leave it, name and rating are correct unlike the other. Fun route, I think the gear is good, even at top you can work a decent cam in a flake I think, but it's mostly easier climbing from there I believe. The block of rock involved in the lunge at start sketches me if I look too hard it, but hopefully it's fine. Dec 28, 2014
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
Ahh...same route. Delete my description? Sep 6, 2014
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
see here : mountainproject.com/v/madam… Sep 6, 2014