Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,140 total · 20/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 6, 2014
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Fun route with neat traversing to the left to keep the grade modest.

Step up on the ramp (could be slick...take care) and sink the fingers into the flake over the roof. Place a bomber cam or two, maybe a nut, then pop the roof to a nice stance. Step left. Float up the easy section of Russian Revolution then again step left to avoid the finish of that route. Milk the arête for some fun and stimulating finish moves which look hard but aren't too sassy.

A long sling on pro at the moves left will nearly eliminate rope drag.

The pin on the upper crack of Russian Revolution could be clipped if need be. Long sling keeps the drag down here too.

There's a bit of a lack of gear on the upper arête prior to the top out so take care and get good gear prior to launch.

Great finish position on the final arête!

Location

This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.

Located to the left of the 12' spike of rock at the base of Recollections of Pacifica.

Locate a small overhang topped with a rectangular flake.

Belay from tree and crack (takes cams) atop route, then, traverse to climber's right to fixed anchor for Wafer Step/Recollections for the git down.

Protection

Trad rack from small cams to a 2 or 3 Camalot (or equivalent) and a set of nuts.

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
see here :mountainproject.com/v/madam… Sep 6, 2014
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.6
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.6
Ahh...same route. Delete my description? Sep 6, 2014
I'd leave it, name and rating are correct unlike the other. Fun route, I think the gear is good, even at top you can work a decent cam in a flake I think, but it's mostly easier climbing from there I believe. The block of rock involved in the lunge at start sketches me if I look too hard it, but hopefully it's fine. Dec 28, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
very fun climb. Seemed harder than a 6. At points, it looks hard, but, if you move carefully, you will find big holds and great moves. Lots of fun, worth doing. Protects well. May 27, 2015
june m
elmore, vt
june m   elmore, vt
The lunge is really special is you are short Jul 6, 2016
A great climb! This renewed my interest in select slab climbs.

Please heed the following sentence from the description above:

There's a bit of a lack of gear on the upper arête prior to the top out so take care and get good gear prior to launch.

I didn't place so well initially, and then thought better of it and placed a second piece as backup. I believe the issue was that my hand was in the better of two pockets for the placing stance which also is likely the better gear pocket.

Be advised that in the 2015 Grant Simmons guide book, the topography picture can give one the impression that the start is further right than it really is as the start of the next route over, Recollections of Pacifica is not is not shown in the topography. Recollections of Pacifica has a very distinctive vertical fin sticking up that the belayer can lean against. Madam LeBois has a flat stone bench just below the route picture shown here that is accurate.

Enjoy the lunge and be safe about it! :)

Edit: There is also a new bolted anchor that is between Madam LeBois and Recollections of Pacifica that is not in the guide book. So you potentially have two choices to walk over and rappel to. Guides seem to like top roping clients on Wafer Step so it makes sense that this got added as a way to rappel off the climb. Aug 15, 2017
. Mobes
MDI, ME
 
. Mobes   MDI, ME
 
A fun and heady 5.6! Sep 28, 2018