Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab)
Avg: 2.6 from 29 votes
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|Page Views:||884 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Sep 6, 2014|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionFun route with neat traversing to the left to keep the grade modest.
Step up on the ramp (could be slick...take care) and sink the fingers into the flake over the roof. Place a bomber cam or two, maybe a nut, then pop the roof to a nice stance. Step left. Float up the easy section of Russian Revolution then again step left to avoid the finish of that route. Milk the arête for some fun and stimulating finish moves which look hard but aren't too sassy.
A long sling on pro at the moves left will nearly eliminate rope drag.
The pin on the upper crack of Russian Revolution could be clipped if need be. Long sling keeps the drag down here too.
There's a bit of a lack of gear on the upper arête prior to the top out so take care and get good gear prior to launch.
Great finish position on the final arête!
LocationThis climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.
Located to the left of the 12' spike of rock at the base of Recollections of Pacifica.
Locate a small overhang topped with a rectangular flake.
Belay from tree and crack (takes cams) atop route, then, traverse to climber's right to fixed anchor for Wafer Step/Recollections for the git down.