Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,310 total · 73/month
Shared By: T. Moon on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


132 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

A great 5.5 climb in a very scenic location. Scramble to the top of a detached block. Jam the steep, vertical crack to a stance. From here the angle lays back and you follow the beautiful left arching crack until it joins a vertical crack (the top of Recollections of Pacifica). Belay from the two bolt anchor. Rappel with one rope.

Location

Follow the main trail from the road. You'll come to a wall. Traverse left a short distance to the end of the wall and then straight up talus until you reach the South Wall (about 100 feet). Go right and them up some very cool old stone stairs. Continue on until you see the large detached block and two cracks. Wafer Step is the furthest right crack.

[NOTE: I have added the following to all "Central Slabs" climbs, but the submitter's description is excellent! "This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right." R Hall ME Admin]

Protection

Eats up finger & hand sized gear.
You'll want a number 5 stopper to protect the thin crack at the top! And a long runner to make sure it doesn't pop out.... Aug 5, 2010
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
  5.5
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
  5.5
Should be nominated for most wonderful 5.5 on the planet. If it were a thousand feet long, I'd drive ten hours in an unregistered '78 Chevette with bald tires and a milk crate for a driver's seat just to do it. Oct 7, 2011
jim.dangle    
Fun climb with a great view. As another commenter said you definitely want your smallest gear to protect the thin crack at the top.

Jim Nov 27, 2011
Julia Lee
Royal Oaks, MI
Julia Lee   Royal Oaks, MI
Definitely would agree with needing micro-nuts at the top. I'm 5'2" so I had a little difficulty getting to the good hold at the top. A little spicy for short people. Jul 9, 2013
mikejohnson1 Johnson
Essex Junction, VT
  5.5
mikejohnson1 Johnson   Essex Junction, VT
  5.5
Really great climb. Just a note, I was somewhat worried that this was affected by the Perigrine falcon closure but as of yesterday it is not. Also, the closure is clearly marked with string and a sign.

Enjoy! Jul 13, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
crazy fun. I am very short, didn't have any issue finishing the climb. May 27, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
SO FUN! Wow, I had a blast on this over the weekend. As for the previous comments about gear, I was able to get two number 4 BD nuts in. If I recall correctly those are the smallest regular BD nuts so I would say no micro-nuts needed if you spend some time to protect the crux. Aug 24, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
Yup...small wires needed for the top move. Try opposing them, with one below the keep the upper "money" nut in place.

Best thing about this climb is you can then TR "Pacifica" FANTASTIC climb!!! Sep 8, 2015
jessie briggs
  5.15d
jessie briggs  
  5.15d
One of the best routes anywhere. Does rock climbing really get much better or more fun? I don’t think so Jun 3, 2018