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Blackbeard’s Arete
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Adrift T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bilge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Byzantine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Conan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Crossbones TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crosswind TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Eclipse T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gypsy Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mowgli T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Offshore Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pirates of Penzance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Precipice aka The South Wall | 2717, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Reach, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Schooner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wagger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| GPS: | 44.34691, -68.19013 |
| FA: | John Harlin III and Ed Webster, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 289 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Sep 21, 2023 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
For details visit:
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Description
Blackbeard’s Arete is the dark, mysterious arete visible from almost everywhere on the South Wall. Its upper bolt, lost in a sea of dark rock, evokes a sense of fear and curiosity. The 10d crux is just above the bolt, but expect quite a bit of runout climbing in the 5.9 range.
Start just left of the Dike Gully. Climb through some nebulous terrain to the first bolt. Moderate, juggy moves lead to a stance out left where you’ll find a sneaky pin. Extend this well, because the real adventure is about to begin. Step out right, climbing boldly above your gear through a series of positive holds, to the beckoning second bolt. Enjoy your moment of relief, because it’s officially crux time. Challenging footwork, long reaches, and desperate slaps give way to victory jugs, allowing you to join Schooner 5.8. From here you have two options. Find a spot to belay, or continue all the way to the top in a heroic mega pitch. Either way, follow a series of cracks, slabs and corners all the way up the arete. Mantle into the cranberries and fight the rope drag left, slamming the last inch of your rope into the anchor. Congrats, you’ve done it, you’re a real pirate now!
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