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Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall

Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsys T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Byzantine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Juvenile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Philidelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tempest , The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17,271 total, 135/month
Shared By: T. Moon on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Pitch one takes you up a little gully to a slabby section. Belay at a comfortable stance. Pitch two goes up a tremendously fun left facing dihedral. Great stemming and jamming with excellent pro. Belay at the top of this feature. Pitch three heads up steep hand cracks. Veer left at the top of the cracks to find the anchor. You can descend with one 60 meter rope by doing two rappels. There is another bolted anchor directly below.

Location

Come up the trail from road. Traverse left when you reach a wall and then head up talus to the main wall. The climb begins just to your left if you come directly up the talus.

Protection

Medium gear. Gear anchors for pitches 1 & 2, bolted anchor with rappel rings at the top.
A good route for learning multi pitch. I considered linking the second and third pitch as we were very hot in full sun, but opted not to as I had concerns of having enough of the right sized gear. I think if you are a very strong and well experienced climber, linking them is doable. Like others mentioned the pitches are short, but it does keep the leader and belayer easily within voice range and keeps the gear choices more manageable.

Don't walk around the left of the top small tree in the notch on the first pitch. Keep them on your right. I thought this would make the rope line straighter and it did the opposite.

The second pitch was the best and most challenging.

There is a rusty and stuck red #1 cam on pitch three. Not mine, and didn't clip it. Poor placement too. It's against a one inch detached flake in the crack.

It was very windy at the top on the day we climbed, so voice commands had to be very loud to be heard. We rappelled in one go from the top with two 60 meter ropes. I saddle bagged the ropes because of the wind. It made for a very quick descent and I had no issues pulling the ropes.

Barrett Stetson: Vacation Crack is the only documented route right of the start of the third pitch of Story of O. I wasn't looking around at the time so can't confirm for you anything beyond that. Aug 15, 2017
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
 
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
 
I was behind another group, so broke it into the full 3 pitches. It felt like a high ratio of work to actual climbing-- I think 2 pitches would have made for a more enjoyable climb. The second pitch is pretty great, but the third pitch is basically a (fun) 15 ft V1 boulder problem and then scrambling to the chains. Jul 22, 2017
Ben W.
Scotts Valley, CA
Ben W.   Scotts Valley, CA
Fun route, great rock. I linked the first two pitches with a 70m rope (although you could also use a 60m rope) being as the first pitch was mostly easy fifth class climbing. Breaking this route into three pitches seems a little excessive and unnecessary. Oct 11, 2014
Such a great route! Just climbing it this weekend with my buddy, we are both fairly new to trad so this was a great one to do, with an awesome view as well! Sep 30, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
This is full-value for the grade. And while I'm sure it can all be run together in one really long pitch, the three pitches break up easy on nice ledges and make it easy for climbers to see each other and communicate. The upper two pitches, in particular, are wonderful---steep, great moves, good gear (and perhaps verging on 5.7). On P.3, face moves out left and then a step back right make reaching the first gear easier. What a little gem. The rap anchor is up and left once you top out. Two raps to the ground. Aug 18, 2014
There is a nice looking crack to the right of the start of the 3rd pitch. Does anyone know what this is? It seems not far enough right for vacation cracks, but when I looked for vacation cracks from the description in the guidebook I wasn't sure I saw that either. Jun 27, 2013
Dustin Lagoy
Southern CA
 
Dustin Lagoy   Southern CA
 
Beautiful route, I spent a week in Acadia at the end of May and climbed this route once a day as a warm-up (or down). It is a great classic that shouldn't be missed. I would also like to submit the first record for a speed ascent of the climb at 18:58 from the time I (the leader) left the ground until both of us were off rappel at the bottom ;).

P.S. This route can be climbed easily with a 70m (likely a rope stretcher if using a 60) in one pitch with limited rope drag. Jun 10, 2011