Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 44.34691, -68.19013
FA: Ralph Fickel, early 1980s
Page Views: 97 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Aug 17, 2025
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

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Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Just to the right of Originator Crack is a steep, V shaped stem corner, capped by a perched boulder cave. This is Bilge, curiously the second route on the island with this name.
Start by stemming the corner to a stance beneath a dubious looking flake. Some better gear underneath it protects burly laybacking moves up to a stance. Stem and chimney into the V corner to a perplexing stance, where everything seems to face the wrong direction. See it through and you’ll be rewarded with… an even more perplexing stance! Gain the top out jug with relief and mantle through the boulder hole, to a sandy little nook. Belay from a gear anchor in the finger sized range.

To descend, scramble off to the left to the top of Originator Crack, then walk down to the base.

Location Suggest change

Hike past Wafer Step and Jungle Book into the woods, staying beneath the boulders. After about 30 feet or so cut through the boulders to a small alcove with a wide crack and a V shaped corner. The wide crack is Originator Crack, the corner is Bilge.

Protection Suggest change

Gear from 0.2 to #4 and nuts, bring extra finger sized gear for the anchor.

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