Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.
Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks.
Protection
I use some med nuts, 2 #2BD camalots, and some mid range cams for pro. I think you could use all small stuff but with the #2s it makes protecting ledge fall a breeze.
[Hide Comment] A super fun climb that's easy to protect. Great for your first time leading, a 50m rope is all you need to reach the ground. The view of the ocean is priceless.
Feb 22, 2010
[Hide Comment] Rock climbs get harder, and they get longer, but move for move, they don't get much better. Absolutely perfect stone, pleasant and interesting moves, great pro, a fantastic setting, and sustained at the grade. A flawless pitch of climbing. Climb this route!
Jul 9, 2010
[Hide Comment] Don't underestimate the first 20 feet--it's a little awkward and strenuous. Please take the time to protect the start well. After that, it's just cruising wonderfulness.
Oct 7, 2011
[Hide Comment] I think that this is the best 5.7 I've done anywhere. It is a strikingly beautiful and looks like it would go at 5.10 but is delightfully moderate! It's an absolute must-do.
I watched many groups climb it over a few days that I spent at the Precipice and did note that less experienced followers tended to fall on the first move or two so a tight belay is necessary to keep them from clipping the ground.
Jul 10, 2015
[Hide Comment] It doesn't get much better than this, at the grade. A little stiff perhaps, in that old school kinda way. Newer 5.7 leaders might be a little freaked. Such high quality!
Jul 25, 2018
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb. Stout lead for the 5.7 trad leader. Crux is near the ground. Protects well but some might find placing gear to be somewhat strenuous.
Sep 11, 2019
[Hide Comment] Probably my favorite route all year, and my favorite 5.7 ever. It seems almost man-made with how perfectly placed the feet/hands were. To top it all off the view from the anchors is terrific. Absolutely DO NOT skip this one if you are visiting the island.
If you are considering this as a first lead just know the first bit can be tricky to protect so if you've never placed nuts before so maybe have your buddy leave in the first couple placements just to be safe. It really mellows out after that and you'll be laughing all the way to the top as you sew it up.
Aug 29, 2021
Avg: 3.7 from 303
votes
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
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Santa Rosa Valley, CA
Bridgton, ME
Maine
Gardiner, NY
Boulder, CO
I watched many groups climb it over a few days that I spent at the Precipice and did note that less experienced followers tended to fall on the first move or two so a tight belay is necessary to keep them from clipping the ground. Jul 10, 2015
Salt Lake
Bar Harbor, ME
Las Vegas
Worcester, MA
If you are considering this as a first lead just know the first bit can be tricky to protect so if you've never placed nuts before so maybe have your buddy leave in the first couple placements just to be safe. It really mellows out after that and you'll be laughing all the way to the top as you sew it up. Aug 29, 2021
Saint Louis
Pittsfield, VT