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All Locations > Maine > Acadia National Park

Great Head Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Great Head

Birdcage, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cavern, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Left wall 7 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Morning Glory Alcove 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 27 ft
GPS: 44.327, -68.176 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,776 total · 207/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.

There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.

Thanks to ri. for the contribution.

Getting There

Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Great Head Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Great Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
● Full Sail
Trad, TR
Left wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Bilge
Trad, TR
Left wall
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
● Morning Glory
Trad
Morning Glory Alcove
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 5
● Windward Roof
TR
Left wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
● Black watch
Trad
Morning Glory Alcove
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 21
● Head Arete
Trad
Left wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
● Corsair
Trad
Morning Glory Alcove
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 3
● Sinbad
Sport
Left wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 3
● When Six Changes To Nine
Trad
Cavern
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
● The FishScale
Sport
Cavern
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Full Sail Left wall
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Bilge Left wall
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Morning Glory Morning Glory Alcove
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Windward Roof Left wall
 5
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c TR
● Black watch Morning Glory Alcove
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Head Arete Left wall
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
● Corsair Morning Glory Alcove
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Sinbad Left wall
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
● When Six Changes To Nine Cavern
 3
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad
● The FishScale Cavern
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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3 Comments

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nickv
nickv  
From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff. Feb 26, 2008
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear. Mar 2, 2008
Echoinfi
Echoinfi  
So much more potential at this cliff. May 5, 2012

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