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Areas in Great Head

Birdcage, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cavern, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Left wall 7 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Morning Glory Alcove 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 27 ft
GPS: 44.327, -68.176 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.

There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.

Thanks to ri. for the contribution.
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Getting There

Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Great Head

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So much more potential at this cliff. May 5, 2012
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear. Mar 2, 2008
nickv  
From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff. Feb 26, 2008

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