Elevation: 27 ft
GPS: 44.32731, -68.17502
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,293 total · 376/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.

There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.

Thanks to Ri Fahnestock for the contribution.

Getting There

Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.

25 Total Climbs

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Location: Great Head Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Great Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 44
Full Sail
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Bilge
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Morning Glory
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 15
Windward Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Black Watch
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Firstlight
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Old Soaker
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 34
Head Arete
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Corsair
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 10
Sinbad
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Highlander
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
The FishScale
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Full Sail Left wall
 44
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Bilge Left wall
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Morning Glory Morning Glory Alcove
 61
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Windward Roof Left wall
 15
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Black Watch Morning Glory Alcove
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Firstlight Morning Glory Alcove
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Old Soaker Left wall
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Head Arete Left wall
 34
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Corsair Morning Glory Alcove
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Sinbad Left wall
 10
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Highlander Morning Glory Alcove
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The FishScale Cavern
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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