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Great Head Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Great Head

Cavern, The 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Left wall 8 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Morning Glory Alcove 6 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Elevation:	27 ft
GPS:	44.32731, -68.17502 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	72,293 total · 376/month
Shared By:	Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.

There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.

Thanks to Ri Fahnestock for the contribution.

Getting There

Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.

25 Total Climbs

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Location:	Great Head Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Great Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 44 ● Full Sail Trad, TR Left wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 9 ● Bilge Trad, TR Left wall
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 61 ● Morning Glory Trad Morning Glory Alcove
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 15 ● Windward Roof Trad, TR Left wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 14 ● Black Watch Trad Morning Glory Alcove
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 5 ● Firstlight TR Morning Glory Alcove
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 3 ● Old Soaker Trad, TR Left wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 34 ● Head Arete Trad Left wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 10 ● Corsair Trad Morning Glory Alcove
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 10 ● Sinbad Sport Left wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Highlander Trad Morning Glory Alcove
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 6 ● The FishScale Sport Cavern