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Routes in Morning Glory Alcove

Black watch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corsair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firstlight TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Highlander T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Morning Glory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trail of Dawn T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,222 total, 44/month
Shared By: nickv on Mar 4, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

From the belay ledge, climb a ramp untill it steepens and then traverse left to a small stance below a large left facing corner. at the third bolt in the corner move left to the arete

Protection

Nuts and small cams in addition to the few bolts makes this climb pretty well protected. a few med-large cams for the semi hanging belay at the bottom.

Photos

akline
  5.8+
akline  
  5.8+
if you clip your rappel line to the second bolt on your way down, when you pull your rope it won't go in the drink. Sep 5, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.8+
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.8+
Every time I go to Acadia I take a lap on this route--surely one of the most spectacular short routes of its grade in New England (especially when the surf is heavy). A word of caution: as you traverse the top of the cliff toward the rappel anchor, the last 10 feet or so is a little spooky (and the bolts aren't all that easy to spot. Consider roping up for this (it's easy to set up a belay from a pod up and left). An un-belayed slip while traversing the final few feet would surely be fatal. Jul 18, 2011