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Routes in Beech Cliff Bouldering

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 685 total · 27/month
Shared By: opusgrooves on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

SANDBAGGED: Definition: "deliberately underperform in a race or competition to gain an unfair advantage."

Amazing boulder problem up the hill from "Beeched Whale," this little gem is overhung at about 50 degrees and though short, it packs a major punch...

Feels way harder than V3/4 in our opinion.

Start matched on a decent side-pull, make a dynamic move to a weathered sloper out left, and choose from a shallow flake under-cling or shallow crimp rail to gain the awesome lip.

  • Big moves and relatively hard, this problem may be one of the best on the island (for the grade)! Very "heady," but well worth the effort! The feet are terrible down low, so use caution, (pads and spotters), as the landing is awful as well. FULL VALUE BOULDER PROBLEM!

Location

Beech Cliff and Canada Cliffs trails. Follow the directions to 'Silence is the Question,' and continue on that same trail... This boulder is directly up the hill from, 'Beeched Whale!'

Protection

Multiple pads and spotters, as the top-out is "heady" at best.

Photos

Ryan Murphy 18
maine (bar harbor)
Ryan Murphy 18   maine (bar harbor)
I'm a big fan of this problem! It feels to be turbo sandbagged but that might also be because its landing is super sketchy even with 3 full sized pads down. Happy climbing Sep 29, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
This climb is not even remotely deserving of an X rating. The boulder is maybe 12-13 feet tall and the landing can be made very safe with a couple of pads. May 13, 2018
opusgrooves
  V3-4
opusgrooves  
  V3-4
Funny how other people call the landing super sketchy but Christian once again disagrees with the input on MP. The landing is sketchy and I doubt you've finished these problems given your "beta" and negative input on the majority of the problems. May 14, 2018
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Actually, both myself and my girlfriend Alex climbed it. You will see that in a video I'm putting together. My girlfriend doesn't like to climb problems that are 'sketchy', but she had no problem hopping on this because she thought the landing was quite safe with the pads we brought. We're allowed to have differing opinions and we can both share those opinions. May 14, 2018
opusgrooves
  V3-4
opusgrooves  
  V3-4
Yes, you're allowed different opinions. May 14, 2018
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
I generally expect the X rating to mean "I may very easily break a leg or possibly die if I fall off of this problem". The rocky landing I see in these photos isn't dangerous enough to deserve an X rating. I'm with Christian on this one. Jun 25, 2018

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