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Routes in Beech Cliff Bouldering

Beeched Whale V5+ 6C+ PG13
Beeched Whale, (Left Arete). V0 4 PG13
Hyperbole V4-5 6B+ PG13
Kara V4-5 6B+ PG13
Parking Lot Boulder V0 4 PG13
Purity V3-4 6A+ X
Purity (Right Variation) V7-8 7B X
Silence is the Question V8-9 7B+ PG13
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 324 total · 16/month
Shared By: opusgrooves on Sep 8, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

SANDBAGGED: Definition: "deliberately underperform in a race or competition to gain an unfair advantage."

Amazing boulder problem up the hill from "Beeched Whale," this little gem is overhung at about 50 degrees and though short, it packs a major punch...

Feels way harder than V3/4 in our opinion.

Start matched on a decent side-pull, make a dynamic move to a weathered sloper out left, and choose from a shallow flake under-cling or shallow crimp rail to gain the awesome lip.

  • Big moves and relatively hard, this problem may be one of the best on the island (for the grade)! Very "heady," but well worth the effort! The feet are terrible down low, so use caution, (pads and spotters), as the landing is awful as well. FULL VALUE BOULDER PROBLEM!

Location

Beech Cliff and Canada Cliffs trails. Follow the directions to 'Silence is the Question,' and continue on that same trail... This boulder is directly up the hill from, 'Beeched Whale!'

Protection

Multiple pads and spotters, as the top-out is "heady" at best.

Photos

Ryan Murphy 18
maine (bar harbor)
Ryan Murphy 18   maine (bar harbor)
I'm a big fan of this problem! It feels to be turbo sandbagged but that might also be because its landing is super sketchy even with 3 full sized pads down. Happy climbing Sep 29, 2016

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