Avg: 3.6 from 21 votes
Routes in Left wall
|24 Hour Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Barnacle TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bilge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Crustacean TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Full Sail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Head Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|High Noon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13|
|Melba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Old Soaker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sinbad S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Tiger Shark TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Windward Roof TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||3,484 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Collins on Nov 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionIf you have only one day to climb at Acadia, you should head out to the Otter Cliffs. But save an hour or two to head out to Great Head to do this incredible pitch. In contrast to the other sections of the cliff that have committing apporaches, Head Arete has a simple walking approach. It is somewhat tide dependent though, so pick a low tide window to head over or else the start will be wet.
At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middle part of the cliff. Clip the high first bolt, and then make a sketchy mantle manuever to get established on the climb. The cruxiest move comes at the 2nd bolt, where a powerful lieback gets you on to a beautiful headwall. The next section is why this climb is so classic: tricky, thoughtful, sustained 5.10 face climbing in a spectacular setting. The bolts are never so far apart that you could get seriously hurt, but big whippers are possible. A cam placement in this section helps with piece of mind. The great climbing, coupled with the fact that your belayer is out of sight and there is nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is what makes this pitch so memorable. The finish is harder than it looks, so think about it before committing.
One of the best pitches of trad face climbing anywhere.