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Routes in Left wall

24 Hour Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Barnacle TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bilge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crustacean TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Sail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Head Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
High Noon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Melba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Soaker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sinbad S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Tiger Shark TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Windward Roof TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,484 total, 32/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Nov 12, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

If you have only one day to climb at Acadia, you should head out to the Otter Cliffs. But save an hour or two to head out to Great Head to do this incredible pitch. In contrast to the other sections of the cliff that have committing apporaches, Head Arete has a simple walking approach. It is somewhat tide dependent though, so pick a low tide window to head over or else the start will be wet.

At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middle part of the cliff. Clip the high first bolt, and then make a sketchy mantle manuever to get established on the climb. The cruxiest move comes at the 2nd bolt, where a powerful lieback gets you on to a beautiful headwall. The next section is why this climb is so classic: tricky, thoughtful, sustained 5.10 face climbing in a spectacular setting. The bolts are never so far apart that you could get seriously hurt, but big whippers are possible. A cam placement in this section helps with piece of mind. The great climbing, coupled with the fact that your belayer is out of sight and there is nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is what makes this pitch so memorable. The finish is harder than it looks, so think about it before committing.

One of the best pitches of trad face climbing anywhere.

Protection

6 or 7 bolts. A couple small-medium cams.

Photos

Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.10+
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
  5.10+
Finally stepped up to the plate and got on head arete today and it sure did not disappoint. Technical yet powerful, most likely the best 10+ in the park and what a position! The climb is safe enough that the falls at the crux are clean but it still stays exciting throughout! Aug 25, 2016
jyount
jackson, wy
 
jyount   jackson, wy
 
Full value 10+ climbing. Thoughtful and devious, bring your A game for the onsight. Aug 25, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
A CLASSIC ! You think you may die from several factors but it's really fairly safe and wild climbing. Sep 30, 2009