Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Butterfield
Page Views: 791 total · 26/month
Shared By: Nate Thompson on Jun 23, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details


Super fun route with lots of flakes to grab on as jugs. Here's the quote from Grant Simmon's guidebook: "An extraordinary moderate. Either start up the obvious groove that splits the cliff or traverse in from the left (easier climbing) aiming for a bolt shared with Rhythm Figure and Bilge. From the bolt climb up and right, passing the Sinbad anchor (optional belay), and continue straight up to another bolt. Finish slightly right on a gorgeous headwall (bolt). Single bolt and small cams for anchor (the first anchor left of the Bilge gully).


This route starts in the same groove as Bilge and heads right after the bolt shared with Rhythm Figure and Bilge.


One bolt at the top for a combo anchor and several spots for pro, recommended up to 2" rack by Grant Simmons.


Nate Thompson
Columbia, SC
Nate Thompson   Columbia, SC
Watch the tides over at Great Head. I didn't have any problems while I was there, but the waves are really intimidating at this area. Also, the bottom of the left wall can be accessed from the top; however, continuing to the right at The Cavern and Morning Glory Alcove I would not even dare to access these from the top of the cliff: better to rappel. Jun 23, 2016
T.J. Kieper
Beacon, NY
T.J. Kieper   Beacon, NY
We elected to go with the optional mid point belay due to the noise of the waves for communication purposes. Great climb! Sep 3, 2018