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Routes in Left wall

24 Hour Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Barnacle TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bilge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crustacean TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Sail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Head Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
High Noon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Melba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Soaker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sinbad S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Tiger Shark TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Windward Roof TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 138 total · 18/month
Shared By: Daniel Kaye on Jun 1, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

What's fun?

Climbing by the ocean? Finding a way to mantel up an awkard corner using laybacks and/or heel hooks to get established in a corner under a huge roof (crux)?? Traversing left to pull around a big-ass roof that looks much more intimidating than it really is? Slab climbing up backward's facing holds? Turning around and seeing boats of tourist waving at the "Rock climbers, scaling sea cliffs to your right, as Acadia is also a popular spot fo.."

If that sounds fun, this climb might be.

Location

Starts on the left-side of the huge roof area. Most people traverse up and right (staying low) into a corner. Route continues up to the roof, traverses left under it, and then there's two options:

Head up an left, past a bolt, through slightly more moderate terrain to the top. I think this is the intended direction if you're trad leading.

Or After pulling around the roof, traverse back right over the roof using a server lack of holds, and continue stemming up a not-very-featured corner with backwards holds. I think this actually links into the top half of another route ('Old Soaker') but is a much more direct/straight-up line if you're doing it on TR. Also, one year we tried to use the bolt & redirect the top rope that way, but if one falls at the crux it drags the rope through a nasty rope-sized crack and cuts it almost in half. Or at least I was it do this to someone's rope. Hence my recommendation. I think the slabby climbing helps keep it interesting and challenging the whole way up too.

Protection

TR: Bolts & gear from above to set a Top Rope (hard to know where to drop the rope though without having prior knowledge, or a spotter below.) I think we used the second and third bolt from the left (if you're looking from the ocean towards the cliff).

Leading: One bolt, plus gear? (Never lead it, so I'm not sure how good/where/what size/kind of gear applies)

Photos

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