Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Left wall
|24 Hour Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Barnacle TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bilge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Crustacean TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Full Sail T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Head Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|High Noon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13|
|Melba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Old Soaker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sinbad S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Tiger Shark TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Windward Roof TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||156 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||John Gassel on Jul 7, 2015|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionAccording to the Butterfield guide book, back in 1915 there was an 18 ft. diameter stone tower that stood atop Great Head. This tower was constructed by the tireless efforts of a donkey name Melba, who hauled in approximately 35 tons of cement and sand. This route is named in honor of her.
Much like the donkey, this route is stout!
Pitch one starts below the alcove on the left side. Climb into the alcove. Once established, traverse right past a bolt to a stance and build a gear anchor. You could also rappel down to this point from the top of the cliff.
There will two bolts on the roof above you; the left one is for Melba. It's reachy to clip this bolt. You can place a micro cam (blue alien) before committing to this reach. With optimism, climb up over the roof (crux) and through the overhang making some wild moves in the process. This felt very hard for the grade but is bolt protected. Move up and left on easier, but non-trivial ground, following a crack system to the top and a 2 bolt anchor.