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Routes in Otter Cliffs
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Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barnacle Bait TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brochure Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Capsized TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+ |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crab Meat TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corner" ) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Face of the Sailor T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gallery Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gallery, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Chimney (aka Chockstone Chimney), The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Great Chimney, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Inner Sanctum TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Maine Central TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mermaid TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mystic, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ocean Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Otter Cliff Ice TR WI3+ |
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Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Out to Sea TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Outer Face T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Plaque Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rock Lobster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rogue Wave TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seabreeze T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+ |
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Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Staircase T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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State of Maine TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stingray TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Swing Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Terrace Exit T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wonder Wall T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Wonder Wall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | TR |
| GPS: | 44.31194, -68.18919 |
| FA: | Unkown |
| Page Views: | 323 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Aug 23, 2023 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
The longest pitch at Otter. The lower bits are chossy in spots, so be sure to tap on holds before you pull outwardly on anything. Stingray follows the long, striking corner up the left side of the Sea Cave to the face above. Locate a crack that takes hand sized gear to build your anchor on a far hikers right perch, out beyond the Plaque Wall of Otter. Lower towards a blocky corner, you may want a #2 cam for a directional.
Start in the dark corner (sometimes wet) on a small black ledge. Stem up the corner, taking care not to reef on any of the holds, as a few flakes are suspect. Follow airy moves out left to mantel a ledge, then step left to a finger crack. Be mindful of loose blocks at the base of the crack. Jam and layback up and right to another ledge. Follow the final corner/face up on steep jugs and crimps to a final big ledge, pluck the directional and scramble to the top. The full route is best climbed at low tide and after a few days of sun.
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