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Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Adair by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Starfish TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,423 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nathan Z on Jun 30, 2008 with updates from Etha Williams
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Fun timing with the tides leads to fantastic and varied climbing. Liebacking, tricky problem solving through the roof, and crack climbing, or at least some stellar jams.

Location

rappel in, south of the haystack. Obvious, gaping right facing corner

Protection

Standard Rack, good gear

Photos

Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Apparently Black Crack and two nearby routes are now gone. Heavy seas brought down a bunch of rock. Hopefully this link will work: newenglandbouldering.com/fo… Jul 17, 2008
This climb is gone now. It was very dangerous because of loose rock, the new version looks like it will be good once it is clean. Jul 20, 2008
adam wibby  
 
just for a fun fact this climb fell down not due to seas or nothin really, just time. it literally fell in the middle of a calm summer night. and when it fell it was a block about the size of half a school bus. it took razor flake an amazing 11d RIP. Aug 17, 2009
Jeremy Corson
Northwood, New Hampshire
Jeremy Corson   Northwood, New Hampshire
What's interesting about this route is that it's still bring ticked off pretty regularly. Guess I will find out if it exists this week when I go! Jul 25, 2010
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+ R
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+ R
Awkward, slick and felt downright dangerous leading it, in it's post-rockfall condition. Aug 23, 2010
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Funny to read about the rockfall... I had no idea! We set a top rope on this one and all the members of my group, 6 of us, agreed that this was a great climb. 5.8 still seems right on. Jun 30, 2014
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
 
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
 
New post-rockfall climb still totally climbable, probably still ca 5.8, although I don't put much stock in my ability to assess grades at this point. Wish I'd written down more details about the climb while it was still fresh in my mind. There's a good belay station about halfway down the climb that one can get to by scrambling down some rocks to the left. Probably not a great lead but TR can be set up with gear. May 28, 2018

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