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Areas in Clifton Crags

Big Chick Hill 20 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Eagle Bluff 23 / 29 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
Fletchers Bluff 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Parks Pond Bluff 5 / 13 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18

Description

The town of Clifton is nestled in the rolling hills just east of Bangor & is home to some of the finest crags in the state. Travelling climbers don't tend to stop in on their way to Acadia, so the Clifton area remains a sort of local secret. Rock is scattered across the map in a swath running from Aurora down through Dedham and beyond. On a good day, the peaks of Chick Hill and Fletcher's Bluff are visible in the distance from the west and make up two of the four main roped climbing areas with the other two being Parks Pond and Eagle's Bluff. Alongside the cliffs are also a number of bouldering areas, some with excellent access and some with serious issues.

Those who enjoy climbing on balancy holds and tweaky, tip numbing edges will find plenty to do as Clifton is the home to nearly a dozen crags.

Climbers with fingers of steel and precise footwork will be attracted to Clifton.

Getting There

The Clifton crags are located about 20 minutes east of Bangor. All the crags (except for eagle bluff) are located off of rt. 9. Eagle bluff is off of 180

107 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Clifton Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Time
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Craig's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Overnite Sensation
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riders Of the Storm
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witch Wonder
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk on the Mild Side
Sport 2 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bivy Route
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Son of a Birch
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The Eagle's Gift
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wheaties
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highlander
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Seriousness Aside
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chinese Water Torture Direct
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blaze of Glory
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eagle Direct
Trad
My Time Big Chick Hill > Main Face 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Craig's Crack Parks Pond Bluff > Main Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Overnite Sensation Big Chick Hill > Main Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Riders Of the Storm Parks Pond Bluff > Mushroom Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Witch Wonder Eagle Bluff 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Walk on the Mild Side Eagle Bluff 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Bivy Route Eagle Bluff 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Son of a Birch Big Chick Hill > Tower Buttress and Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Eagle's Gift Eagle Bluff 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Wheaties Eagle Bluff 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Highlander Eagle Bluff 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
All Seriousness Aside Eagle Bluff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chinese Water Torture Direct Eagle Bluff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blaze of Glory Eagle Bluff 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Eagle Direct Eagle Bluff 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Clifton Crags »

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Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
@ZWMS Eagle's Bluff is the best crag for casual top roping. Jul 25, 2017
zwms  
Anyone have thoughts on the best of these crags for a few hours of afternoon TR? I am confident leader up to 11+, but going with a friend who has never belayed a leader before. Might feel okay to run some 6/7 stuff if that would help to set TR anchors. Also - any beta on climbing the day after a little rain? Sep 10, 2016
DubDub
Sacramento, CA
DubDub   Sacramento, CA
Where can I camp around Clifton Crags, approximately July 4 through 8?
Also seeking partners: mountainproject.com/v/maine… Jun 19, 2016
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
RIP Don Jul 23, 2013
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
Don Nelligan rocks!

If you don't know who I'm talking about then you haven't climbed at Clifton. Mar 25, 2011
Peter, you can get the guidebook from Alpenglow Adventure Sports/Acadia Mountain Guides at 92 Main St., Orono or 228 Main St., Bar Harbor. Also online at alpenglowgear.com. Aug 14, 2010
Peter Dodge
Duluth, MN
Peter Dodge   Duluth, MN
Where can you get the guidebook? Aug 9, 2010
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
If you mean Sundog wall. It is vertical to slightly overhanging. Except for 1 chossy line, they are all well equipped sport routes. It's in the guidebook. Jul 12, 2010
Matty Zane
Freedom
Matty Zane   Freedom
Anyone know anything about the cliff over by fletchers? Its a mile or so before fletchers off one of the side logging roads. It looks very vertical, and may have potential for some nice lines. Apr 12, 2009
matt.maine
raymond, maine
matt.maine   raymond, maine
a great place to get away just not during bug season
if you spend any time there get the guide to Clifton by Jon Tierney Oct 8, 2008

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