Elevation: 193 ft
GPS: 44.247, -69.087 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 234,948 total · 1,450/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

General:
The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: 
A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Guidebooks:
The defacto bible for the area is Camden Climbing, put out by locals Ben Townsend and Alan Rees. It's available at Maine Sport Outfitters in nearby Rockport.

Ben Townsend is very active on MP as well, and is a great friendly local guy, always up for giving some beta or sharing the secrets of Camden. Hit him up.

Guiding Services:
  • Equinox Guiding Service - New kids on the block this guide service is primarily focused on climbing both rock and ice in and around Camden Hills.
  • Atlantic Climbing SchoolWith an office right in Bar Harbor these guys primarily serve Acadia and Camden, though they will guide any location in New England and also offer guiding internationally. Locally owned, these guys put out the last couple guidebooks for Acadia.
  • Acadia Mountain Guides - Also based in Bar Harbor along with a location in Orono Maine, this school focuses primarily on Acadia but also guides throughout New England, along with occasionally offering AMGA classes. Owned by John Tierney, who wrote the original Clifton Guidebook.

Getting There

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

244 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at -Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 4
Pompadour
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
O-C-D
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
500 Pound Flakeout
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
Glory Hole
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 6
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
The Bolt Ladder
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
ladder line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 4
White Streak
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 20
Brown Eye
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 14
cracked up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 13
sun spot
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Marty the Toad
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Ariel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pompadour 10. The Spot > Pompadour boulder
 4
V6 7A Boulder
Charlotte's Crack 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
O-C-D 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
500 Pound Flakeout 02. The Verticals
 20
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Glory Hole 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Million Muppet March 09. Guide's Wall
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S… 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
The Bolt Ladder 02. The Verticals
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
ladder line 13. Hot Spot , Rock C…
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
White Streak 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Brown Eye 02. The Verticals
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
cracked up 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
sun spot 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 13
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Marty the Toad 02. The Verticals
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Ariel 12. The Rampart
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in -Camden Hills »

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