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Areas in Camden Hills

01. Maiden Cliff & Frostbite, Pete's & Blue Vein 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
02. The Verticals 4 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
03. Jerry's Wall 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 24 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 5 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
06. Skyline Crag 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
07. Left Cataract (mostly Ice) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
08. Right Cataract (Ice &Bixler's Area) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
09. Guide's Wall 14 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
10. the Spot - Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
11. Fireman's Ladder (Rampart Area) 4 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
12. The Rampart 4 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
13. Hot Spot , Rock Climbing 6 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
13a. Hot Spot - Ice Climbing 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
15. Mt. Battie 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description [Suggest Change]

[NOTE: The crags for this AREA have been numbered so that they are listed, roughly, in order from the northernmost (Maiden) to southernmost (Mt.Battie) and crags that are close together appear together, instead of alphabetical. Another way to look at it is: the crags now are listed, roughly, L to R as one would view them from the far shore of Megunticook Lake, if you could see them all from there. R. Hall, Maine Admin, 12/5/16]

The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

151 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 5
Heathrow - Ice Climb
Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 7
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
500 Pound Flakeout
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Harmonic Convergence
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Glory Hole
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Exasperator
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
birds eye (aka- FB)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Dream Weaver
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 4
cracked up
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Ariel
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
voluntary madness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heathrow - Ice Climb 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 5
WI3+ Ice
Poison Ivy 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Charlotte's Crack 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
500 Pound Flakeout 02. The Verticals
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Harmonic Convergence 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Glory Hole 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Million Muppet March 09. Guide's Wall
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S… 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START) 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Exasperator 14. Ocean Lookout/ Up…
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
birds eye (aka- FB) 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dream Weaver 12. The Rampart
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
cracked up 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Ariel 12. The Rampart
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
voluntary madness 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Camden Hills »

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