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Areas in Camden Hills

01. Maiden Cliff & Frostbite, Pete's & Blue Vein 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
02. The Verticals 4 / 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
03. Jerry's Wall 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 22 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 5 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
06. Skyline Crag 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
07. Left Cataract (mostly Ice) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
08. Right Cataract (Ice &Bixler's Area) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
09. Guide's Wall 14 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
10. the Spot - Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
11. Fireman's Ladder (Rampart Area) 4 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
12. The Rampart 4 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
13. Hot Spot , Rock Climbing 6 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
13a. Hot Spot - Ice Climbing 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
15. Mt. Battie 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 193 ft
GPS: 44.247, -69.087 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 56,079 total, 483/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

[NOTE: The crags for this AREA have been numbered so that they are listed, roughly, in order from the northernmost (Maiden) to southernmost (Mt.Battie) and crags that are close together appear together, instead of alphabetical. Another way to look at it is: the crags now are listed, roughly, L to R as one would view them from the far shore of Megunticook Lake, if you could see them all from there. R. Hall, Maine Admin, 12/5/16]


The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Getting There

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

148 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
Heathrow - Ice Climb
Ice
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harmonic Convergence
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glory Hole
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exasperator
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
birds eye (aka- FB)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Obscure Object of Desire
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dream Weaver
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
cracked up
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ariel
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
voluntary madness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heathrow - Ice Climb 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff WI3+ Ice
Poison Ivy 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Charlotte's Crack 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Harmonic Convergence 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Glory Hole 05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Million Muppet March 09. Guide's Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S… 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START) 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Exasperator 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunti… 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
birds eye (aka- FB) 05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Obscure Object of Desire 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dream Weaver 12. The Rampart 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
cracked up 05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Ariel 12. The Rampart 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
voluntary madness 05. Lost Valley aka Out Back 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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