Elevation: 193 ft
GPS: 44.247, -69.087 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 159,167 total · 1,074/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

General:
The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: 
A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Guidebooks:
The defacto bible for the area is Camden Climbing, put out by locals Ben Townsend and Alan Rees. It's available at Maine Sport Outfitters in nearby Rockport.

Ben Townsend is very active on MP as well, and is a great friendly local guy, always up for giving some beta or sharing the secrets of Camden. Hit him up.

Guiding Services:
  • Equinox Guiding Service - New kids on the block this guide service is primarily focused on climbing both rock and ice in and around Camden Hills.
  • Atlantic Climbing SchoolWith an office right in Bar Harbor these guys primarily serve Acadia and Camden, though they will guide any location in New England and also offer guiding internationally. Locally owned, these guys put out the last couple guidebooks for Acadia.
  • Acadia Mountain Guides - Also based in Bar Harbor along with a location in Orono Maine, this school focuses primarily on Acadia but also guides throughout New England, along with occasionally offering AMGA classes. Owned by John Tierney, who wrote the original Clifton Guidebook.

Getting There

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

230 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at -Camden Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 3
Pompadour
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 11
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Harmonic Convergence
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Glory Hole
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 6
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Exasperator
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Pandora
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
birds eye (aka- FB)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Obscure Object of Desire
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 12
cracked up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
sun spot
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Ariel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pompadour 10. The Spot > Pompadour boulder
 3
V6 7A Boulder
Poison Ivy 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Charlotte's Crack 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Harmonic Convergence 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 14
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Glory Hole 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
The Million Muppet March 09. Guide's Wall
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S… 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START) 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Exasperator 14. Ocean Lookout/ Up…
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pandora 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
birds eye (aka- FB) 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Obscure Object of Desire 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
cracked up 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
sun spot 05. Lost Valley aka O…
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ariel 12. The Rampart
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in -Camden Hills »

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