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Routes in 12. The Rampart

Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ariel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caliban (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Coast of Bohemia, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dream Weaver S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fireman's Ladder Area T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Prospero S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reconnaissance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Renascence S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Renasonance (Link Up) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tense Mossworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tilted Arc T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wingspan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
second april S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Peter Beal 93/94
Page Views: 1,855 total, 16/month
Shared By: Brandon Melanson on Sep 3, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Every goes very smoothly till you get to the ledge. Once at the ledge you can either go left up the arete or head straight up. I feel that the climb was originally intended to go straight up but I wasn't able to figure out the moves. If you go left towards the arete. I feel that you knock the climb down a letter grade and a number grade to a 10a/b. The crux this way is very pumpy and a fall could result in a dangerous swing into the ledge.

Location

Follow the Jack Williams trail till you come to a stack of rocks. Take a hard left and follow the deer trail till you get to the Cliff

Protection

9 quick draws.

Photos

Russell Johnson
Waterville ME
Russell Johnson   Waterville ME
The crack that starts to the left of Dream Weaver (called Dense Mossworks according to previous poster) has recently been cleaned up. It now makes for a nice trad lead at maybe 5.9+. The crack ends at the ledge before the Dream Weaver crux, so the logical finish would be to continue to the DW anchors. Aug 21, 2014
Matty Zane
Freedom
Matty Zane   Freedom
The Crack on the left is called "dense mossworks," I've been told it was 11a, but its much easier in my mind. Bit dirty, but a few enjoyable moves. Oct 31, 2009
epoch
Maine
 
epoch   Maine
 
I agree with the concensus of .10c. It is a bit harder (.10d?) if you follow the bolt line on the second half of the route.

Is there any information about the crack - that seems to always be wet - on the left of Dream Weaver? Sep 14, 2009
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
I think .10c is appropriate. Sep 13, 2009
john weaver
  5.10c
john weaver  
  5.10c
no it was intended to stay on the arete the intire way from bottom to top! bolts out right off ledge because of the hollow rock on the arete. Apr 14, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Not 10c in my opinion but I don't mind either way. Apr 11, 2009
Matty Zane
Freedom
Matty Zane   Freedom
I was (and still might be) helping Ben with photo topos for the new guide, I have a rough draft of the guide and the route still goes at 11a in the new edition. But I agree with a rating of 10c. Also, what new lines were you gonna put up? I'd be very interested to check them out. Thanks. Apr 9, 2009
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Can we call it 10c in the new guide? Any disputes? Weaver? Great. 10c it is ;). Mar 27, 2009
john weaver
  5.10c
john weaver  
  5.10c
dream weaver is 10+, and fa was weaver. Mar 26, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Thanks for the news regarding rebolting the Camden area routes. The name Tilted Arc refers to a sculpture by Richard Serra that was ultimately taken down by its patron, the U.S. General Services Administration, an unwittingly prophetic name, I guess

I'd be psyched to hear about other developments. The project left of Dream Weaver was supposed to have been done already but I never was able to confirm it. It should be in the 13d/14a range. Too bad it seeps a lot. Nov 9, 2008
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Hi peter! Most of the ramparts has been re-bolted. Ben Townsend and Alan Reese put in the stuff to 11a and I rebolted all of the harder stuff that you and Weaver did back in the day. Tilted arch still goes on gear w/ 1 bolt above the lip where I broke off the good hold last spring. Now a throw to a crimper ;). The project to left of dream WEAVER is going back in in the spring. Also 2-3 more proj. going in in the area, but they are HARD. Cheers and thanks for the climbs.PS. Renascence 12c? Old school, i like it. Nov 9, 2008
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Hi Kris! John Weaver bolted and climbed this route in 1992-93. I always thought the lower arete was the sketchiest part. Fun route though and nice picture. Have these routes all been rebolted? Sep 11, 2008
Kris Hanson
Freeport, ME
Kris Hanson   Freeport, ME
I believe that the FA of this route was done by Peter Beal in 1993 or 94. He also developed some climbs to the left of the upper section. Sep 10, 2008