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Elevation: 416 ft 127 m
GPS: 44.24696, -69.08472
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,911 total · 308/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.

Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.

The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.

Getting There Suggest change

Park along Route 52 just south of the road to the town beach at Barrett's cove on lake Megunticook. Hike in along the climbers path, which starts near the high end of the paved pulloff. The hike up takes about 3-5 minutes. [...and arrives at the base of the cliff near the climb "Poison Ivy". note added by R Hall]

51 Total Climbs

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Location: 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Barrett's Cove Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 7
Heathrow - Ice Climb
Ice
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 10
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
Equinox
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 20
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 16
Clamdigger Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 17
Old Spice
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Together Through Life
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Harmonic Convergence
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 11
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 4
White Streak
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Old Stud
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Pandora
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Obscure Object of Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heathrow - Ice Climb
 7
WI3+ Ice
Slow Children (mid-cliff ST…
 10
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Equinox
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Poison Ivy
 20
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Clamdigger Crack
 16
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Old Spice
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
Charlotte's Crack
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Together Through Life
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Harmonic Convergence
 22
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S…
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START)
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
White Streak
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Old Stud
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pandora
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Obscure Object of Desire
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Barrett's Cove Cliff »

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