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Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff

Buffy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bugaboo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clamdigger Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Continental Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Equinox T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Good Omens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Harmonic Convergence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heathrow - Ice Climb WI3+
Hidden Attraction T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotel California T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joe's Route - Ice Climb WI2
Obscure Object of Desire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Spice T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Old Spud T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Old Stud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pandora T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poison Ivy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Queen Charlotte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slow Children (mid-cliff START) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Elevation: 416 ft
GPS: 44.247, -69.085 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,251 total · 115/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.

Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.

The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.

Getting There

Park along Route 52 just south of the road to the town beach at Barrett's cove on lake Megunticook. Hike in along the climbers path, which starts near the high end of the paved pulloff. The hike up takes about 3-5 minutes. [...and arrives at the base of the cliff near the climb "Poison Ivy". note added by R Hall]

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Barrett's Cove Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 5
Heathrow - Ice Climb
Ice
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 4
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
Equinox
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 8
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
Clamdigger Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 10
Old Spice
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 11
Harmonic Convergence
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Desperado
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Queen Charlotte
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Old Stud
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Pandora
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Obscure Object of Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heathrow - Ice Climb
 5
WI3+ Ice
Slow Children (mid-cliff ST…
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Equinox
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Poison Ivy
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Clamdigger Crack
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Old Spice
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
Charlotte's Crack
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Harmonic Convergence
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Desperado
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Queen Charlotte
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S…
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START)
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Old Stud
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pandora
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Obscure Object of Desire
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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Noah Doherty
Nashua, NH
Noah Doherty   Nashua, NH
What is the hard one to the left of Charlie's Crack? Oct 6, 2012

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