Elevation: 416 ft
GPS: 44.247, -69.085 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,360 total · 211/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.

Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.

The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.

Getting There

Park along Route 52 just south of the road to the town beach at Barrett's cove on lake Megunticook. Hike in along the climbers path, which starts near the high end of the paved pulloff. The hike up takes about 3-5 minutes. [...and arrives at the base of the cliff near the climb "Poison Ivy". note added by R Hall]

47 Total Climbs

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Location: 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Barrett's Cove Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3+
 7
Heathrow - Ice Climb
Ice
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 7
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Clamdigger Crack
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 11
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 14
Old Spice
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Charlotte's Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Together Through Life
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Harmonic Convergence
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Queen Charlotte
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 6
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Spider (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Pandora
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Hotel California
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Obscure Object of Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Heathrow - Ice Climb
 7
WI3+ Ice
Slow Children (mid-cliff ST…
 7
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Clamdigger Crack
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Poison Ivy
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START)
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Old Spice
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
Charlotte's Crack
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Together Through Life
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Harmonic Convergence
 14
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Queen Charlotte
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fourth of July (mid-cliff S…
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Spider (mid-cliff START)
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pandora
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Hotel California
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Obscure Object of Desire
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
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