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Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 200 ft
GPS: 44.238, -69.066 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,347 total, 32/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

This very visible crag, also known as the Upper Megunticook Cliffs, has seen less activity than other Camden areas, probably because of its one-mile, uphill approach. It is my favorite area in camden, and is full of steep cracks, from fists to fingers. Peregrines are often present year-round in the area above the largest talus slope. According to the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, they are not currently nesting, but should the situation change, please respect any posted closures.

Getting There

Hike in via the Tablelands Trail, which starts from the Mt. Battie Auto Road (park entrance fee required). The trail will take you to a point below the right end of the cliff; find the intersection of the Jack Williams Trail, follow it left a few hundred yards, and then head up to the crag.

You can also reach the Tablelands Trail by continuing uphill on the Carriage Road Trail past the Cataracts, the Ramparts, and the Hot Spot; the trail junction is one mile from the road. Alternatively, go straight up the Megunticook Trail from the Camden Hills State Park entrance on Route 1, emerging at Ocean Lookout at the top of the cliff.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exasperator
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Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Exasperator 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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