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Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

L › R R › L A › Z

	Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Jumpstart T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Keel Hauled T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Elevation:	1,155 ft	352 m
GPS:	44.23762, -69.06577 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	13,686 total · 71/month
Shared By:	Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2022 Peregrine Falcon Update Details

2022 Update: Please be aware that Maine DIF&W has confirmed that a peregrine pair is present at Ocean Lookout. Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…"

Description

This very visible crag, also known as the Upper Megunticook Cliffs, has seen less activity than other Camden areas, probably because of its one-mile, uphill approach. It is my favorite area in camden, and is full of steep cracks, from fists to fingers. Peregrines are often present year-round in the area above the largest talus slope. According to the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, they are not currently nesting, but should the situation change, please respect any posted closures.

Getting There

Hike in via the Tablelands Trail, which starts from the Mt. Battie Auto Road (park entrance fee required). The trail will take you to a point below the right end of the cliff; find the intersection of the Jack Williams Trail, follow it left a few hundred yards, and then head up to the crag.

You can also reach the Tablelands Trail by continuing uphill on the Carriage Road Trail past the Cataracts, the Ramparts, and the Hot Spot; the trail junction is one mile from the road. Alternatively, go straight up the Megunticook Trail from the Camden Hills State Park entrance on Route 1, emerging at Ocean Lookout at the top of the cliff.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Exasperator Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 7 ● Groovey Grubworm Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 5 ● Kudzu Corner Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 4 ● Running Free Trad