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Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Peter Lataille, spring 2005
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The thin, steep crack just left of Running Free. The route can be done as a clean-aid practice climb at A2. Free ascents to date have involved preplaced clean gear.

Location

the thin steep crack just to the right of Kudzus.

Protection

An old bent piton, and lots of small cams and nuts. traverse right to anchors at the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Just a reminder the name is Tilted Arc. As a route developer of much of the Rampart, I would also like to see a draft of the new guide. You can reach me through MP. Apr 21, 2009
Matty Zane
Freedom
 
Matty Zane   Freedom
 
Corson, If you have an email, I can send you a copy of the Draft of the new edition, it doesn't have topos in it yet, but it has a bunch of new climbs, especially at maidens cliff. I spend alot of time with Jerry C. and I love giving him grief about the grades, all in good fun, we get a good chuckle out of it. Also, I think Ben wanted general climbing photos of the area, so if you have any nice photos of camden, I'd love to get copies, it would help speed up the process. Thanks man, Apr 19, 2009
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Fair enough. I'm not sure about the grades. Something I've been meaning to talk to Ben about. I don't think that climb is any more a 12 than say Tilted Arch at the Rampart. Although Tilted Arch is rated 12b and is def. scary on lead it is no harder than 5.11 b/c with a r/x rating. So, I think there ought to be a consensus on some of this stuff. There are still those out there that believe that there is NOTHING harder than 5.9 on Barretts. I dont know about that myself. Keep in mind that Ben has been and still is going off second hand info for a lot of this stuff. There are quite a few climbs here with inflated grades. Including but not limited to Under the gun, Dream Weaver, Ariel, Tilted Arch. There are others that are bagged as well. Such is Camden. I would like to see what you have come up with as far as topo's, keep up the good work
cheers
c Apr 18, 2009
Matty Zane
Freedom
 
Matty Zane   Freedom
 
I'm going off the new edition of the Camden Guide book. I'm helping Be Townsend with some Photo Topo's and have a draft of the New Edition, and it gives the FA to Peter. I've heard of earlier ascents, but I think this was the first True (non-pre placed gear) ascent. Apr 17, 2009
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
05' i thought this was fa'd in like 1980. and 12a where did that come from? Apr 17, 2009