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Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Jerry Cinnamon, Fall 1995.
Page Views: 611 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

a steep, flared dihedral with several bolts and fixed pins. Start up a short overhanging wall to gain a ledge and the base of the corner, which leads up to a hard move around right (crux) and easier climbing up cracks and flakes to a thin crack in the headwall (140'). There is a fixed anchor in a hidden alcove at the top.

Location

In the center of the cliff, the obvious wide corner

Protection

Several Fixed pins and bolts, and a wide selection of cams and nuts for the upper cracks. An anchor can be found in a hidden alcove at the top.

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Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Guide has this as .11b...
Haven't been on it, so I can't offer any additional information. Sep 13, 2009
Matty Zane
Freedom
 
Matty Zane   Freedom
 
In the new guide, not yet out, it goes at 10d. I'd agree with the 10d. rating, theirs really just one stout move exiting the initial corner. Either way, its one of the many gems of camden, definetly reccomend climbing it. Oct 31, 2009

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