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Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook
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Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jumpstart T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Keel Hauled T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 44.23617, -69.06562 |
| FA: | Jay D. & M. Shoemaker |
| Page Views: | 1,268 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Mr Eeeeezy on Jun 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
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Access Issue: 2026 Peregrine Falcon Closure
Details
2026 Update: Please be aware that Maine DIF&W has confirmed that a peregrine pair is present at Ocean Lookout. In the past this pair nested on the far left, but have relocated their nest to the middle of the cliff resulting in closure. Please respect this closure both for your own safety and for the propagation of this species,
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…"
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…"
Description
The climb starts directly where you will approach the cliff up the talus field. Start up a dihedral to some thin cracks onto a right-facing crack and the crux followed by a two-bolt belay on a small ledge. (P2) Start up and right, clip a pin and bolt then trend straight up to two corners and some blocky terrain on the left. I climb the central corner directly to the tree, where you will find a webbing anchor/rappel point. With a 60M rope you can do the whole thing in one very long pitch. A 70M adds a sense of security.
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