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Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Jay D. & M. Shoemaker
Page Views: 128 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay D. on Jun 7, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The climb starts directly where you will approach the cliff up the talus field. Start up a dihedral to some thin cracks onto a right-facing crack and the crux followed by a two-bolt belay on a small ledge. (P2) Start up and right, clip a pin and bolt then trend straight up to two corners and some blocky terrain on the left. I climb the central corner directly to the tree, where you will find a webbing anchor/rappel point. With a 60M rope you can do the whole thing in one very long pitch. A 70M adds a sense of security.

Location

At the top of the talus field on the far left side of the cliff, left of Groovy Grubworm you should be able to make out a crack system that kind-of looks like a gourd.

Protection

Cams up to 3" and a few bolts/pins

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