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Routes in 14. Ocean Lookout/ Upper Megunticook

Central Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Exasperator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Glass factory T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovey Grubworm T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kudzu Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Millenium Falcon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Odin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Free T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Socked In S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Twisted Schister T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Townsend and Dorcas Miller, July 1995.
Page Views: 151 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matty Zane on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A few yards left is a steep, wide crack with a large spike of rock wedged in it at the start. Hand and fist jamming leads to chimneying past chockstones. From an alcove, climb a short slab on the right (crux, 2 bolts), turn the roof, and follow a fist crack up the headwall to a fixed anchor. Rappel with one rope. Take a full rack, including extra gear to 4”. (80')

Location

The obvious wide fist crack on the left side of the cliff

Protection

A full rack, up to a 4". Two bolts protect the slab crux. An anchor is at the top

Photos

epoch
Maine
 
epoch   Maine
 
It felt solid for the grade, with the crux on the slab. Real fun and varied climb! Sep 14, 2009
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Fun climb, pretty dirty right now but I'm guessing that is par for the course based on the amount of traffic. Anyway, 5.9 felt pretty on for this one. Not sure about the plus, the slab isn't bad at all, imo. The trickiest part is getting around from under the roof. You are close to a bolt, but a blue camalot protects this move nicely (if you can place it...)

This is also a fun route to experiment with OW technique. Sep 13, 2009