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Routes in 09. Guide's Wall

Alpine Spring T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beautiful Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Common Ground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cowboy Bebop S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crozier, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firecracker T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jerry's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kuller, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Madam Butterfly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Million Muppet March, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mos Eisley T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Real Folk Blues, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scarecrow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sparkler T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tin Man T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Treasure Island T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Description

Guide's Wall has short (30-60'), mostly moderate routes on sometimes fragile schist. It is southeast facing and shaded by trees, so it's often best in the fall after the leaves are down. It dries slowly. Because it is not yet included in the guidebook, it gets little traffic. All routes have bolted belay/rappel anchors.

Getting There

Park at the Carriage Trail trailhead on Route 52, about a mile west of Camden. Follow the trail (an old road); take the left fork in about half a mile, where the right fork heads up Mount Battie. The trail will cross two small streams on wooden bridges, and then bend sharply right; a cairn just after the bend marks the climbers' trail on the left. Follow the climbers' trail up and left to the start of the left wall of a wide gully; this is the Guide's Wall. The total approach is about a mile of mostly flat walking and takes about 20 minutes.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Guide's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 10
Treasure Island
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 7
Tin Man
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 7
Scarecrow
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Common Ground
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Cowboy Bebop
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Treasure Island
 10
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Tin Man
 7
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Scarecrow
 7
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Common Ground
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Million Muppet March
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cowboy Bebop
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Guide's Wall »

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