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Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Bob Parrott
Page Views: 9,136 total · 70/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d).

The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff changes to schist and the angle kicks back even more.

The schist is a bit reminiscent of the rock at Orange Crush at Rumney and offers interesting big flake/sidepull features. Like all good endurance routes, a tough move guards the anchors.

Protection

8 bolts
Echoinfi  
 
A great extension of this route is to put a long draw on the anchor and cut climber right along the flake to the fat lady anchor and then finish on Fat Pig. Very awesome climbing, 5.13a. Jan 9, 2010
Steven James
Portland, Maine
 
Steven James   Portland, Maine
 
Ginseng is the first 5.12 I sent. The moves are fun, and it seems like nearly every piece of the route has different beta that can work for anyone.

This route is just too fun. If you are a wannabe 5.12 climber and you don't get on Ginseng when you visit Shagg, you've missed out.

P.S. The move typically considered the crux has wrecked more than two shoulders. I found that my shoulder was really upset if my feet were too low. May 16, 2014
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
 
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivi√®res, QC
 
Graham O.
  5.12a
Graham O.  
  5.12a
Maybe a bit soft, but classic nonetheless. Has a lot of big moves but they are all to good holds. Redpoint crux is probably the last move. Jun 27, 2018

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