|GPS:||44.424, -70.531 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||69,872 total · 534/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on May 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Ladd, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionIn my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.
Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.
Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.
Getting ThereFrom the south (North Conway):
Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.
After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.
At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.
Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Shagg Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season