Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 839 ft
GPS: 44.424, -70.531 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 68,528 total, 533/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on May 21, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Getting weather forecast...

Description

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.


Getting There

From the south (North Conway):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.
After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.
At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.

49 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Shagg Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Shagg Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Shagg
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Great Escape
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zagg Shagg
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Two Shaved Heads
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Bob
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Looney Tunes
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Meltdown
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg It
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bob?
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nice Tooth
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The Ritual
Sport 15 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Short Shagg 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Great Escape 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Zagg Shagg 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Two Shaved Heads 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Short Bob 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaggin Wagon 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Looney Tunes 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Meltdown 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bob? 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bobcat 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nice Tooth 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Ritual 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 15 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Shagg Crag »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
Most of the cliff has permanent protection due to the steepness and difficulty cleaning. Those that don't are clearly marked in the Conway guidebook and here on MP. Decent rain protection as long as it isn't a downpour. Well shaded until 1 or 2 pm. Early afternoon gets pretty toasty and then it'll cool off again around 4:30 or 5pm.


For anyone who finds the parking/trailhead directions mildly confusing, the GPS coords are: 44.426927W, -70.538135N. That'll take you to the exact location of the pullout. Google Maps knows all the back roads there and can direct you just fine. The crag itself is located at 44.432975W, -70.526945N. Sep 15, 2016
Looking to head out to Shagg this week.. Visiting Maine from Washington. Are most of the lines here perma-drawed? Does it get shade at a certain time of day? Do any of the routes stay dry during/after rain? Thanks for any help! Sep 4, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
I'm assuming that Shagg Zagg and Zag Shagg are actually the same route? They both describe finishing an extra 5 bolts above Great Escape. One of the moderators want to merge the pages if that's the case? Aug 14, 2016
Julek  
I found some gear there 5 days ago. Anyone lose a set of quick draws and some lockers? Aug 7, 2014
Julek  
I found some gear there 5 days ago. Anyone lose a set of quick draws and some lockers? Aug 7, 2014
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Hey Jay -

Anyway this page can have all the unsorted routes sorted in. Would be super helpful since there is no guide and the cliff is easily described from L to R or R to L?

Thanks! Aug 5, 2014
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Is it dry yet? Mar 11, 2013
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
You can print out a guide here: mountainproject.com/scripts… May 29, 2012
I was hoping for a trip to Shagg sometime this spring and had emailed Ladd for a guidebook. I guess he changed emails or isn't around or something, either way, I was wondering if anyone happened to have a copy of that homemade guidebook he had that could email it to me? Apr 6, 2012
Found a grigri there monday...pm me with the biner color, tape color and tell me whether it is a grigri 1 or 2 and I will return it to rightful owner. Oct 11, 2011
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Shagg... the real deal yo! Jul 22, 2011
Mike Veazey
Exeter, NH
Mike Veazey   Exeter, NH
Two mystery pitches above Kick to the Teeth. One is a 7 bolt pitch at mid 5.10 the next finishes to the top of the cliff. Anyone know anything about these? Apr 23, 2011
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
Maybe its just me, but after a 3 hour, meandering drive from conway, I'm inclined to believe the the directions here were not quite right. Here are mine. I you follow them, I promise you will not get as lost as I did...

Take rt 26 towards West Paris, turn east onto 219. After 4.8 miles, turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. After 1.6 miles take a left, continuing on Tuell Hill rd. After .9 miles, Tuell Hill rd. ends. Take a left on Reading. After 3.9/4 miles, there is a pullout on the left. Park here, the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond. At this trail junction, take the right path going up a steep hill. follow the path going uphill, and after 15/20 minutes when the trail starts to level off, take a small trail that breaks off right. After a couple minutes, you will be at the base of the crag. Aug 25, 2010
Dominic Benson
Bangkok, Thailand
Dominic Benson   Bangkok, Thailand
can't forget Jim Ewing, "What about Bob" is rad. Jul 30, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
andyscott   Massachusetts
Did a really cool link up today at the right end of the cliff. It starts on Cell Block D and then after the crux of Cell Block D traverses left into Looney Tunes. I have no idea of the name or grade. Anyone know? Jun 30, 2010
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
The parking area is at the top of a steep hill, with the trail starting across the road. In the winter and early spring, this road is not plowed and one must park at the base of this hill to avoid the sticky snow and getting stuck on either side (which has happened several times this month already!). Also, the road becomes extremely muddy this time of year, and 4WD is strongly encouraged. Mar 29, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Nate Kimball put up a least a route or two as well. I cannot comment on the presence of beer or bongs. Jul 21, 2008
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
For the most part Shagg Crag was developed in its entirety by Erik Mushial and Bob Parrott. I have it from the highest authority that the birth of Shagg took place over the course of one summer fueled by bong smoke and cases of warm beer. It would be safe to assume that any given route here, unless established in some later unrelated effort, should be credited as a collaboration of these two great New England climbers. Jul 19, 2008
Ladd    
I happen to have a homemade guidebook complete with FAs and some topos. Feel free to contact me via email if you want a copy. Mar 24, 2008
Matty Zane
Freedom
Matty Zane   Freedom
Is their a guide book to this area? I know its listed in the rock climbing New England book, but I wan wondering if their was guidebook specifically for this area Mar 23, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Jay--
If you didn't post this area description, sooner or later I was going to have to! Thanks! Dec 12, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Shagg Pond is one of the best cliffs in the country for 5.12 sport routes. If you are looking for technical routes, powerful routes, weird routes, or endurance routes, Shagg has a 5.12 for you. Dec 8, 2007

More About Shagg Crag

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Shagg Crag (75)

Most Popular · Newest