Elevation: 839 ft
GPS: 44.433, -70.527 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 168,803 total · 954/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on May 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.

Kayte on Shaggin Wagon

Getting There

From the south (staring at Norway, ME):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.

After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.

At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.

51 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at -Shagg Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Short Shagg
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 167
The Great Escape
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 23
Shagg Zag
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 48
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 72
Two Shaved Heads
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 64
Short Bob
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 109
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 114
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 74
Meltdown
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 39
Looney Tunes
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 64
Shagg It
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
What About Bobcat
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Fat Bastard
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
What About Bob?
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
The Ritual
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Short Shagg
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Great Escape
 167
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Shagg Zag
 23
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy
 48
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Two Shaved Heads
 72
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Short Bob
 64
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaggin Wagon
 109
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route
 114
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Meltdown
 74
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Looney Tunes
 39
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It
 64
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bobcat
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fat Bastard
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bob?
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Ritual
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in -Shagg Crag »

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