Routes in Shagg Crag
|Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Ginseng Route S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Grimas De Oro V8 7B|
|It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Raging Bull, The V8 7B|
|Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|GPS:||44.424, -70.531 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||68,528 total, 533/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on May 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
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DescriptionIn my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.
Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.
Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.
Getting ThereFrom the south (North Conway):
Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.
After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.
At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.
Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Shagg Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
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