Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,900 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Two Shaved Heads is located on the far right side of the cliff, past Meltdown, on a separated section of rock. The routes here are slightly less pumpy than those on the main part of the cliff, partly because they're shorter and partly because they're less steep.

Unlike many other routes at Shagg, Two Shaved Heads offers vertical, technical climbing. It is also much harder than it looks. After the steep, relatively easy start, the climbing becomes delicate and and culminates in some hard moves at the top. Expect to use your fingers more than your biceps on this one.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.12a
andyscott   Massachusetts
  5.12a
The two finger pocket on this route is probably the only one at shagg! Nov 2, 2009
JEC
Lakewood, Colorado
JEC   Lakewood, Colorado
S. Neoh
  5.12a
S. Neoh  
  5.12a
Good to see that people still climb this route and it is still graded 5.12! (was 12b back in '96 when I sent it). Got it second try after got booted off It Ain't Pretty repeatedly. Definitely favors strong fingers over big biceps/shoulders :) Aug 28, 2010
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
How in the world do you use the two-finger pocket on this route? A friend and I were completely stymied by it, and ended up moving right after the good crimp at the fourth bolt, like in the video. Curious about other beta! Sep 15, 2013
caesar.salad
earth
 
caesar.salad   earth
 
Beta spoiler:

You have to bump out to a sidepull then go up to a good crimp, match and go to the pocket, then do a crazy pull up with most of your weight on those fingers. It's hard.

I'm curious about the rightwards beta! Mar 29, 2015
Graham O.
  5.12a
Graham O.  
  5.12a
From the good edge, I snagged the pocket with my left hand, then moved my right up to a good fingerlock. I then bumped my left to a bad crimp and then again to a strange hexoganol edge. From here I could reach a jug on the lip and clip the anchors.

Very cool route, lots of interesting technical climbing. Jun 27, 2018