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Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,488 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Two Shaved Heads is located on the far right side of the cliff, past Meltdown, on a separated section of rock. The routes here are slightly less pumpy than those on the main part of the cliff, partly because they're shorter and partly because they're less steep.

Unlike many other routes at Shagg, Two Shaved Heads offers vertical, technical climbing. It is also much harder than it looks. After the steep, relatively easy start, the climbing becomes delicate and and culminates in some hard moves at the top. Expect to use your fingers more than your biceps on this one.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

caesar.salad
earth
 
caesar.salad   earth
 
Beta spoiler:

You have to bump out to a sidepull then go up to a good crimp, match and go to the pocket, then do a crazy pull up with most of your weight on those fingers. It's hard.

I'm curious about the rightwards beta! Mar 29, 2015
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
How in the world do you use the two-finger pocket on this route? A friend and I were completely stymied by it, and ended up moving right after the good crimp at the fourth bolt, like in the video. Curious about other beta! Sep 15, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.12a
S. Neoh  
  5.12a
Good to see that people still climb this route and it is still graded 5.12! (was 12b back in '96 when I sent it). Got it second try after got booted off It Ain't Pretty repeatedly. Definitely favors strong fingers over big biceps/shoulders :) Aug 28, 2010
JEC
Lakewood, Colorado
JEC   Lakewood, Colorado
andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.12a
andyscott   Massachusetts
  5.12a
The two finger pocket on this route is probably the only one at shagg! Nov 2, 2009