Type: Sport
FA: Jim Ewing
Page Views: 1,074 total · 9/month
Shared By: chris deulen on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the few great endurance routes at Shagg, and one of 4 that start on The Great Escape. To reduce rope drag, skip the clip on the flake of Shagg It, or bring a full length sling. This makes the next section (where the gray rock meets the schist) a bit creepy, albeit safe with a good belay. There are a couple of hard moves before a good hold can be acquired to clip off of after this section. After rounding the corner, finish by climbing into Shagg Zag by either down climbing a bit and unclipping to reduce drag again, or merely skip it and prepare for a ride if the juice isn't there to make it through this endurance crux. All in all, a great newer route that needs to see more traffic, and could use another brushing or two. Thanks Jim Ewing for putting this up. Two stars for the complexity of the lead.

Protection

Make sure you know what you're doing before you get into this thing!

Photos

- No Photos -
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
# of bolts? Chains at the top? Where does it finish? Thanks for adding the route, but this description needs a little more detail. Apr 8, 2009
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Start on Great escape, At second bolt veer up and left like you were going to climb Shagg It, after first crux of Shagg It, bust right again through a steep ( roof? ) section into Zagg Shagg below its RP crux, finish to Zagg Shaggs anchors. I have not climbed this yet but it looks FULL VALUE! Apr 18, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12b
While I don't have the number of bolts, I feel my description is adequate (though I will try to add a picture as soon as I can). It should be implied that the route finishes on Zag Shagg and that a number of slings is needed. Even if there are chains at the top, that shouldn't effect the amount of gear you bring. Someone may have removed them since this post. Someone may have added them. Most climbing areas I've been to don't have chains, and the ones that do are priviledged. Descriptions should not be used as a form of protection or as a crutch to common sense. Bring enough gear, find the route, then use your own discretion. Jun 10, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Chris,

Sorry if I came across as abrupt or rude. Not my intent. I agree with all you say w/r/t descriptions not being a substitute for common sense. My comment here was probably misplaced - I just got used to the spoon-feeding.

Thanks again for adding the route. Jun 15, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.12b
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.12b
No worries! Climb on. Jul 1, 2009