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Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Ewing
Page Views: 991 total, 9/month
Shared By: chris deulen on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the few great endurance routes at Shagg, and one of 4 that start on The Great Escape. To reduce rope drag, skip the clip on the flake of Shagg It, or bring a full length sling. This makes the next section (where the gray rock meets the schist) a bit creepy, albeit safe with a good belay. There are a couple of hard moves before a good hold can be acquired to clip off of after this section. After rounding the corner, finish by climbing into Shagg Zag by either down climbing a bit and unclipping to reduce drag again, or merely skip it and prepare for a ride if the juice isn't there to make it through this endurance crux. All in all, a great newer route that needs to see more traffic, and could use another brushing or two. Thanks Jim Ewing for putting this up. Two stars for the complexity of the lead.

Protection

Make sure you know what you're doing before you get into this thing!

Photos

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chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
No worries! Climb on. Jul 1, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Chris,

Sorry if I came across as abrupt or rude. Not my intent. I agree with all you say w/r/t descriptions not being a substitute for common sense. My comment here was probably misplaced - I just got used to the spoon-feeding.

Thanks again for adding the route. Jun 15, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
While I don't have the number of bolts, I feel my description is adequate (though I will try to add a picture as soon as I can). It should be implied that the route finishes on Zag Shagg and that a number of slings is needed. Even if there are chains at the top, that shouldn't effect the amount of gear you bring. Someone may have removed them since this post. Someone may have added them. Most climbing areas I've been to don't have chains, and the ones that do are priviledged. Descriptions should not be used as a form of protection or as a crutch to common sense. Bring enough gear, find the route, then use your own discretion. Jun 10, 2009
corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
Start on Great escape, At second bolt veer up and left like you were going to climb Shagg It, after first crux of Shagg It, bust right again through a steep ( roof? ) section into Zagg Shagg below its RP crux, finish to Zagg Shaggs anchors. I have not climbed this yet but it looks FULL VALUE! Apr 18, 2009
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
# of bolts? Chains at the top? Where does it finish? Thanks for adding the route, but this description needs a little more detail. Apr 8, 2009