Peregrine Falcons in Maine
2022 Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: firstname.lastname@example.org.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…" (edited)
One of the few great endurance routes at Shagg, and one of 4 that start on The Great Escape. To reduce rope drag, skip the clip on the flake of Shagg It, or bring a full length sling. This makes the next section (where the gray rock meets the schist) a bit creepy, albeit safe with a good belay. There are a couple of hard moves before a good hold can be acquired to clip off of after this section. After rounding the corner, finish by climbing into Shagg Zag by either down climbing a bit and unclipping to reduce drag again, or merely skip it and prepare for a ride if the juice isn't there to make it through this endurance crux. All in all, a great newer route that needs to see more traffic, and could use another brushing or two. Thanks Jim Ewing for putting this up. Two stars for the complexity of the lead.