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Two Shaved Heads

5.12a, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 67 votes
FA: unknown
Maine > -Shagg Crag

Description

Two Shaved Heads is located on the far right side of the cliff, past Meltdown, on a separated section of rock. The routes here are slightly less pumpy than those on the main part of the cliff, partly because they're shorter and partly because they're less steep.

Unlike many other routes at Shagg, Two Shaved Heads offers vertical, technical climbing. It is also much harder than it looks. After the steep, relatively easy start, the climbing becomes delicate and and culminates in some hard moves at the top. Expect to use your fingers more than your biceps on this one.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sam Filliger on Two shaved heads
[Hide Photo] Sam Filliger on Two shaved heads
two shaved heads
[Hide Photo] two shaved heads
Charlotte Majerczyk making the 3rd clip on Two Shaved Heads.
[Hide Photo] Charlotte Majerczyk making the 3rd clip on Two Shaved Heads.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The two finger pocket on this route is probably the only one at shagg! Nov 2, 2009
JEC
Lakewood, Colorado
S. Neoh
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Good to see that people still climb this route and it is still graded 5.12! (was 12b back in '96 when I sent it). Got it second try after got booted off It Ain't Pretty repeatedly. Definitely favors strong fingers over big biceps/shoulders :) Aug 28, 2010
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
[Hide Comment] How in the world do you use the two-finger pocket on this route? A friend and I were completely stymied by it, and ended up moving right after the good crimp at the fourth bolt, like in the video. Curious about other beta! Sep 15, 2013
caesar.salad
earth
 
[Hide Comment] Beta spoiler:

You have to bump out to a sidepull then go up to a good crimp, match and go to the pocket, then do a crazy pull up with most of your weight on those fingers. It's hard.

I'm curious about the rightwards beta! Mar 29, 2015