Elevation: 1,013 ft
GPS: 44.434, -70.779 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 114,085 total · 3,421/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Nov 6, 2017
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

North of Lake Sebago & from the Bigelows to the west.

Much excellent climbing can be found in the mountains of Western Maine, from hard sport routes, to exciting trad climbs at remote cliffs, to just casual boulders close to the road.

The mountains here are discovered anew by each generation, with clues from rusty old bolts to even older pitons hinting at the climbers of the past. Nature is vibrant, and quick to moss over and reclaim the rock in between spates of climbing exploration, and Maine lacks a large enough population at this time to keep much of the climbing in the zeitgeist.

Local legends loom large in memory, and the climbing and the mountains share much of the character of the whites of eastern NH, and in fact constitute a continuation of the same range.

Getting There

A car is required and a Maine Gazetteer, or more likely these days a smart phone. Don't count on reception though.

Boundaries

For purposes of route sorting we'll consider the southern boundaries of this area a line of latitude drawn at Lake Sebago, and the eastern boundaries starting at roughly Lewiston and chunking itself north and east.

130 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Western Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 3
Slab
Boulder
V1 5
 6
Standard Overhang
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
Rapture
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 3
Swamp Thing
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
A.M.C. Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
A.M.C. Route Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
First Kiss
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Ghost
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Captain Dinghy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Welcome to the Cirque
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
The Growth of the Soil
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
The Tenth Degree
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Brown Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Bemis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Science Project
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slab Twitchell Pond
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Standard Overhang Jockey Cap > Bouldering
 6
V1 5 Boulder
Rapture Bear Mtn Cliff > Boulder Field
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Swamp Thing Twitchell Pond
 3
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
A.M.C. Route Tumbledown Mountain
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
A.M.C. Route Variation Tumbledown Mountain
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
First Kiss Cirque on Littl… > Off the Beaten Path W…
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ghost Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Captain Dinghy Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Welcome to the Cirque Cirque on Littl… > Off the Beaten Path W…
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Growth of the Soil Ten Degree Wall > Shady Wall
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
The Tenth Degree Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Central Wall
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Brown Crack Ten Degree Wall > Military Wall
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Bemis Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Science Project Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Western Mountains »

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