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Elevation: 1,014 ft
GPS: 44.43374, -70.77888
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jonathan S on Nov 6, 2017
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

North of Lake Sebago & from the Bigelows to the west.

Shagg Crag has it's own site under "Maine" https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105964909/shagg-crag

Much excellent climbing can be found in the mountains of Western Maine, from hard sport routes, to exciting trad climbs at remote cliffs, to just casual boulders close to the road.

The mountains here are discovered anew by each generation, with clues from rusty old bolts to even older pitons hinting at the climbers of the past. Nature is vibrant, and quick to moss over and reclaim the rock in between spates of climbing exploration, and Maine lacks a large enough population at this time to keep much of the climbing in the zeitgeist.

Local legends loom large in memory, and the climbing and the mountains share much of the character of the whites of eastern NH, and in fact constitute a continuation of the same range.

Getting There Suggest change

A car is required and a Maine Gazetteer, or more likely these days a smart phone. Don't count on reception though.

Boundaries

Suggest change
For purposes of route sorting we'll consider the southern boundaries of this area a line of latitude drawn at Lake Sebago, and the eastern boundaries starting at roughly Lewiston and chunking itself north and east.

434 Total Climbs

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Location: a. Western Mountains Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Western Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 16
Standard Overhang
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Rapture
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 5
Swamp Thing
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
A.M.C. Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 24
A.M.C. Route Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
First Kiss
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Captain Dinghy
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Ghost
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
The Tenth Degree
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Brown Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Pollo Del Mar
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Welcome to Greenwood City
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Dominatrix
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Wild Rumpus
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Sarlacc
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Overhang Jockey Cap > Jockey Cap Boul… > Peary Boulder
 16
V1 5 Boulder
Rapture Bear Mtn Cliff… > Boulder Field
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Swamp Thing Twitchell Pond
 5
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
A.M.C. Route Tumbledown Mtn Rock
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
A.M.C. Route Variation Tumbledown Mtn Rock
 24
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
First Kiss Cirque on Littl… > Off the Beaten Path W…
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Captain Dinghy Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ghost Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Tenth Degree Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Central Wall
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Brown Crack Ten Degree Wall > Military Wall
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Pollo Del Mar Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Welcome to Greenwood City Bald Bluff > Dike Wall
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dominatrix Bald Bluff > S Wall
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Rumpus Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sarlacc Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Western Mountains »

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