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Elevation: 1,014 ft 309 m
GPS: 44.43374, -70.77888
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 334,089 total · 3,169/month
Shared By: Jonathan S on Nov 6, 2017
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

Description Suggest change

North of Lake Sebago & from the Bigelows to the west.

Much excellent climbing can be found in the mountains of Western Maine, from hard sport routes, to exciting trad climbs at remote cliffs, to just casual boulders close to the road.

The mountains here are discovered anew by each generation, with clues from rusty old bolts to even older pitons hinting at the climbers of the past. Nature is vibrant, and quick to moss over and reclaim the rock in between spates of climbing exploration, and Maine lacks a large enough population at this time to keep much of the climbing in the zeitgeist.

Local legends loom large in memory, and the climbing and the mountains share much of the character of the whites of eastern NH, and in fact constitute a continuation of the same range.

Getting There Suggest change

A car is required and a Maine Gazetteer, or more likely these days a smart phone. Don't count on reception though.

Boundaries

Suggest change

For purposes of route sorting we'll consider the southern boundaries of this area a line of latitude drawn at Lake Sebago, and the eastern boundaries starting at roughly Lewiston and chunking itself north and east.

639 Total Climbs

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Location: a. Western Mountains Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Western Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 30
A.M.C. Route Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 224
The Great Escape
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
Welcome to Greenwood City
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 42
Shagg Zag
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Short Bob
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Dominatrix
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Wild Rumpus
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 139
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 163
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 97
Meltdown
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 36
What About Bobcat
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 25
Tightrope
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 92
Shagg It
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 14
Fat Bastard (link-up)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
What About Bob?
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A.M.C. Route Variation Tumbledown Mtn Rock
 30
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Great Escape Shagg Crag > Main Face
 224
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Welcome to Greenwood City Bald Bluff > Dike Wall
 30
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Shagg Zag Shagg Crag > Main Face
 42
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Short Bob Shagg Crag > Main Face
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dominatrix Bald Bluff > S Wall
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Wild Rumpus Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaggin Wagon Shagg Crag > Main Face
 139
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag > Main Face
 163
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Meltdown Shagg Crag > Main Face
 97
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
What About Bobcat Shagg Crag > Main Face
 36
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tightrope Shagg Crag > Main Face
 25
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It Shagg Crag > Main Face
 92
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fat Bastard (link-up) Shagg Crag > Main Face Linkups
 14
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bob? Shagg Crag > Main Face
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Western Mountains »

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