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Western Mountains Climbing
Areas in Western Mountains
Bear Mountain Cliff
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C Bluff
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Daggett Rock
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Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock
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Great Ledges, The
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Jockey Cap
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Knights Hill Ice
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Land Of Overhangs, The
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Lion's Den
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Mt. Sabbatus
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Peru Tumbledown Dick
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Shell Pond
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Sugarloaf Region Boulders
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Ten Degree Wall
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Tumble Down Dick Mt.
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Tumbledown Mountain
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Twitchell Pond
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| Elevation: | 1,013 ft |
| GPS: | 44.434, -70.779 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 25,388 total · 1,908/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Steitzer on Nov 6, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons
Details
Peregrine Falcons and other raptors nest on many of these remote cliffs. It is best to avoid climbing in the spring and early summer (before August) so as not to disturb these protected birds.
Most of these cliffs are too remote and are on private land, so access has historically been low key. It is important to be respectful of the wildlife in these wilderness climbing locations.
Most of these cliffs are too remote and are on private land, so access has historically been low key. It is important to be respectful of the wildlife in these wilderness climbing locations.
Description
North of Lake Sebago & from the Bigelows to the west.
Much excellent climbing can be found in the mountains of Western Maine, from hard sport routes, to exciting trad climbs at remote cliffs, to just casual boulders close to the road.
The mountains here are discovered anew by each generation, with clues from rusty old bolts to even older pitons hinting at the climbers of the past. Nature is vibrant, and quick to moss over and reclaim the rock in between spates of climbing exploration, and Maine lacks a large enough population at this time to keep much of the climbing in the zeitgeist.
Local legends loom large in memory, and the climbing and the mountains share much of the character of the whites of eastern NH, and in fact constitute a continuation of the same range.
Much excellent climbing can be found in the mountains of Western Maine, from hard sport routes, to exciting trad climbs at remote cliffs, to just casual boulders close to the road.
The mountains here are discovered anew by each generation, with clues from rusty old bolts to even older pitons hinting at the climbers of the past. Nature is vibrant, and quick to moss over and reclaim the rock in between spates of climbing exploration, and Maine lacks a large enough population at this time to keep much of the climbing in the zeitgeist.
Local legends loom large in memory, and the climbing and the mountains share much of the character of the whites of eastern NH, and in fact constitute a continuation of the same range.
Classic Climbing Routes at Western Mountains
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) | Tumbledown Mountain |
|
WI2 M1 Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches | |
| ● "Practice" Flows | Grafton Notch S… > 1. Practice Area aka… |
|
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice | |
| ● Slab | Twitchell Pond |
|
V1 5 Boulder | |
| ● Swamp Thing | Twitchell Pond |
|
V7+ 7A+ Boulder | |
| ● A.M.C. Route | Tumbledown Mountain |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches | |
| ● Standard Crack | Jockey Cap |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR | |
| ● A.M.C. Route Variation | Tumbledown Mountain |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches | |
| ● Winter is Coming | Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area |
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | |
| ● Entrance Crack | Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Central Wall |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
| ● Ghost | Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad | |
| ● Captain Dinghy | Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | |
| ● The Growth of the Soil | Ten Degree Wall > Shady Wall |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad | |
| ● Brown Crack | Ten Degree Wall > Military Wall |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | |
| ● Bemis | Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | |
| ● Science Project | Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport |
Weather Averages
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![Closeup of the AMC Route (green) and the AMC Route Variation (yellow). [You can see the old "Chimney Trail" going up the gully on the far left of the slab. 20yrs ago this was down-climbable or "rappel-able" as an easy return from the summit area. RHall Admin.]](https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/111995722_smallMed_1494315570_topo.jpg)
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