Elevation: 1,013 ft
GPS: 44.434, -70.779 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,388 total · 1,908/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Nov 6, 2017
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

North of Lake Sebago & from the Bigelows to the west.

Much excellent climbing can be found in the mountains of Western Maine, from hard sport routes, to exciting trad climbs at remote cliffs, to just casual boulders close to the road.

The mountains here are discovered anew by each generation, with clues from rusty old bolts to even older pitons hinting at the climbers of the past. Nature is vibrant, and quick to moss over and reclaim the rock in between spates of climbing exploration, and Maine lacks a large enough population at this time to keep much of the climbing in the zeitgeist.

Local legends loom large in memory, and the climbing and the mountains share much of the character of the whites of eastern NH, and in fact constitute a continuation of the same range.

Getting There

A car is required and a Maine Gazetteer, or more likely these days a smart phone. Don't count on reception though.

Boundaries

For purposes of route sorting we'll consider the southern boundaries of this area a line of latitude drawn at Lake Sebago, and the eastern boundaries starting at roughly Lewiston and chunking itself north and east.

109 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Western Mountains

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2 M1
 4
Paradis Gully (Ice Climb)
Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 3
"Practice" Flows
Trad, TR, Ice
V1 5
 3
Slab
Boulder
V7+ 7A+
 3
Swamp Thing
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
A.M.C. Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Standard Crack
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
A.M.C. Route Variation
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Winter is Coming
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Entrance Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
Ghost
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Captain Dinghy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
The Growth of the Soil
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Brown Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Bemis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Science Project
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Paradis Gully (Ice Climb) Tumbledown Mountain
 4
WI2 M1 Trad, Mixed, Ice 2 pitches
"Practice" Flows Grafton Notch S… > 1. Practice Area aka…
 3
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Slab Twitchell Pond
 3
V1 5 Boulder
Swamp Thing Twitchell Pond
 3
V7+ 7A+ Boulder
A.M.C. Route Tumbledown Mountain
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Standard Crack Jockey Cap
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
A.M.C. Route Variation Tumbledown Mountain
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Winter is Coming Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Entrance Crack Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Central Wall
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ghost Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Captain Dinghy Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Growth of the Soil Ten Degree Wall > Shady Wall
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Brown Crack Ten Degree Wall > Military Wall
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Bemis Ten Degree Wall > Main Wall > Bemis Area
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Science Project Shell Pond > High Meadow Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Western Mountains »

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