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Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jim Ewing, bolted by Bob Parrot
Page Views: 3,635 total · 35/month
Shared By: chris deulen on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right. Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and prepare for the boulder problem that follows the seam up left, then face climbs to the finish anchors.

This original left variation has only seen 3 ascents-Jim Ewing, Luke Parady, and myself (mumbles of holds breaking and magic "foot dyno" beta are frequently heard when referencing this finish). Per Jim Ewing, Luke Parady thought it climbed like a 13a/b, but was probably only 12d. From my personal experience, I would put this upper crux sequence around V9 (or 13c overall). It has thwarted the likes of, yes, Dave Graham, as well as Josh Wharton. Does this mean I'm better than Dave Graham and Josh Wharton? Probably.

Note: If you unlock the crux sequence, the theme from Star Wars plays.

Location [Edit]

Between Short Shagg and Shaggin Wagon.

Protection [Edit]

11 bolts, 2 anchors.

Photos

corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
12d Jul 27, 2010
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
Updated. Know the FA? Aug 23, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
 
andyscott   Massachusetts
 
FA Jim Ewing... not totally sure.. I heard second hand Sep 3, 2010
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
Updated again. Sep 19, 2010
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
According to Dave Graham he never did Diesel - just Diesel-Bob. Straight from the horse's mouth. Nov 18, 2010
chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
4 ascents! Way to go Rebecca Lambert!!! Aug 24, 2011
c cook
5.13a
c cook  
5.13a
I found the top section of this route to be difficult and technical, in my humble opinion i would firmly rate it 13a... Jul 22, 2014

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