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Routes in -Shagg Crag
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Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Diesel S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Generous Sons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grimas De Oro V8 7B |
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It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lady’s Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Long and Short of It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nice Lady S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Night Moves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Raging Bull, The V8 7B |
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Rain Czech S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ritual, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Shagg Zag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Solstice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Summer Smoke S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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What About Bob? S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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When the fat lady sings S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Jim Ewing, bolted by Bob Parrot |
| Page Views: | 6,546 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | chris deulen on Nov 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
2022 Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…" (edited)
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out the 2021 Maine Peregrine Falcon Program Report: maine.gov/ifw/docs/2021%20M…" (edited)
Description
What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right. Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and prepare for the boulder problem that follows the seam up left, then face climbs to the finish anchors.
This original left variation has only seen 3 ascents-Jim Ewing, Luke Parady, and myself (mumbles of holds breaking and magic "foot dyno" beta are frequently heard when referencing this finish). Per Jim Ewing, Luke Parady thought it climbed like a 13a/b, but was probably only 12d. From my personal experience, I would put this upper crux sequence around V9 (or 13c overall). It has thwarted the likes of, yes, Dave Graham, as well as Josh Wharton. Does this mean I'm better than Dave Graham and Josh Wharton? Probably.
Note: If you unlock the crux sequence, the theme from Star Wars plays.
This original left variation has only seen 3 ascents-Jim Ewing, Luke Parady, and myself (mumbles of holds breaking and magic "foot dyno" beta are frequently heard when referencing this finish). Per Jim Ewing, Luke Parady thought it climbed like a 13a/b, but was probably only 12d. From my personal experience, I would put this upper crux sequence around V9 (or 13c overall). It has thwarted the likes of, yes, Dave Graham, as well as Josh Wharton. Does this mean I'm better than Dave Graham and Josh Wharton? Probably.
Note: If you unlock the crux sequence, the theme from Star Wars plays.
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