Type: Sport
FA: Eric Mushial
Page Views: 1,778 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Tightrope climbs the line of bolts just left of Ginseng. The crux, coming about two thirds of the way up, is quite a memorable one. Despite my efforts to find alternate beta, the move boils down to a huge dyno. With a very thin left crimp, you set up and throw and hit a sloper at full extension. Holding the outward swing is the most difficult part. It's just so easy to let go of that small crimp, but that's really the only thing holding you in.

If the climbing leading up to the crux was trivial, I'd call this an average route. Since the moves before the crux are still hard, maybe about 12a, and since the crux move is so spectacular, I call this a tough and very fulfilling 12d.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

corson
Northport, Me.
corson   Northport, Me.
OOOOOH....and its sooooooo tempting to grab that draw!!!!!! Mar 21, 2009
Mike Veazey
Exeter, NH
  5.12d
Mike Veazey   Exeter, NH
  5.12d
FA: Eric Mushial Apr 23, 2011
Mike Lambert
  5.12d
Mike Lambert  
  5.12d
Height dependent but quality. May 28, 2012
AlecM
Fredericton
AlecM   Fredericton
Can be done without dyno-ing and using the thin crimps and underclings before the lip. Jul 27, 2015