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5.12d, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 10 votes
FA: Eric Mushial
Maine > Shagg Crag


Tightrope climbs the line of bolts just left of Ginseng. The crux, coming about two thirds of the way up, is quite a memorable one. Despite my efforts to find alternate beta, the move boils down to a huge dyno. With a very thin left crimp, you set up and throw and hit a sloper at full extension. Holding the outward swing is the most difficult part. It's just so easy to let go of that small crimp, but that's really the only thing holding you in.

If the climbing leading up to the crux was trivial, I'd call this an average route. Since the moves before the crux are still hard, maybe about 12a, and since the crux move is so spectacular, I call this a tough and very fulfilling 12d.


9 bolts

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The clip after the crux. My right hand is on the sloper that you throw to.
[Hide Photo] The clip after the crux. My right hand is on the sloper that you throw to.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Northport, Me.
[Hide Comment] OOOOOH....and its sooooooo tempting to grab that draw!!!!!! Mar 21, 2009
Mike Veazey
Exeter, NH
[Hide Comment] FA: Eric Mushial Apr 23, 2011
Mike Lambert
[Hide Comment] Height dependent but quality. May 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] Can be done without dyno-ing and using the thin crimps and underclings before the lip. Jul 27, 2015