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Routes in Shagg Crag

Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ginseng Route S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grimas De Oro V8 7B
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long and Short of It, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Meltdown S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raging Bull, The V8 7B
Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ritual , The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shagg Zag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Summer Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unknown Name S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What About Bob? S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
When the fat lady sings S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Zagg Shagg S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Luke Parady
Page Views: 2,145 total · 21/month
Shared By: chris deulen on Oct 17, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

High first bolt, but a good jug to clip off of (albeit, a high foot, so a bit sketch; bring a stick clip if you must). I shoot out right to a side pull on Looney Toons; being only a few feet to the right, this doesn't seem off route, but makes Agro a bit of a squeeze job. Another couple moves brings you the other direction and back again to the crux: a big slanting pinch that you can barely fit both hands on; man-handle this a bit and go big with style to a crimp, or if you're a complete bamf, go further around right to the jug utilizing a poor sloper as an intermediate. Rest. Do some magic to the real bomber side pull rest, then get ready for the finger crack next to the last bolt (a good 30' below the anchor). If you can't finagle your fat paws into this tiny crack, do some more magic and high stepping to get into the next section of adventure climbing. Then begins the great unknown overgrown chossfest with hidden jugs (probably hard 10). If you're prepared, you've got a couple of small nuts (to match the big ones that have gotten you this far) and/or a #1 for a few choice placements to keep you safe, as well as some mithril to ward off the trolls and giant spiders that guard the anchors. Good luck; you're gonna need it.

Location

Just left of Looney Toons and right of the half-way bolted project, and Meltdown, consequently. Nice little patch of grass in front for a good belay, down on the lower right side of the wall.

Protection

Bolts and small nuts (or C3s, small tcus, as in purple and blue, or blue/green aliens, but nuts are preferable), and/or #1.

Photos

chris deulen
Castle Rock
 
chris deulen   Castle Rock
 
"When you're in deep shit and no one else can help you..." Oct 24, 2009
I heard that humming the A-Team theme song while sending this route helps.... Oct 17, 2009

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