Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Luke Parady |
Page Views: | 3,843 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | chris deulen on Oct 17, 2009 |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
2024 July 28 - Climbing closure routes now OPEN.
Another successful breeding season at the crag, thanks to all the climbers who chose to respect the nesting pair.
For more info. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Another successful breeding season at the crag, thanks to all the climbers who chose to respect the nesting pair.
For more info. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
High first bolt, but a good jug to clip off of (albeit, a high foot, so a bit sketch; bring a stick clip if you must). I shoot out right to a side pull on Looney Toons; being only a few feet to the right, this doesn't seem off route, but makes Agro a bit of a squeeze job. Another couple moves brings you the other direction and back again to the crux: a big slanting pinch that you can barely fit both hands on; man-handle this a bit and go big with style to a crimp, or if you're a complete bamf, go further around right to the jug utilizing a poor sloper as an intermediate. Rest. Do some magic to the real bomber side pull rest, then get ready for the finger crack next to the last bolt (a good 30' below the anchor). If you can't finagle your fat paws into this tiny crack, do some more magic and high stepping to get into the next section of adventure climbing. Then begins the great unknown overgrown chossfest with hidden jugs (probably hard 10). If you're prepared, you've got a couple of small nuts (to match the big ones that have gotten you this far) and/or a #1 for a few choice placements to keep you safe, as well as some mithril to ward off the trolls and giant spiders that guard the anchors. Good luck; you're gonna need it.
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