Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Luke Parady
Page Views: 3,173 total · 22/month
Shared By: chris deulen on Oct 17, 2009
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

High first bolt, but a good jug to clip off of (albeit, a high foot, so a bit sketch; bring a stick clip if you must). I shoot out right to a side pull on Looney Toons; being only a few feet to the right, this doesn't seem off route, but makes Agro a bit of a squeeze job. Another couple moves brings you the other direction and back again to the crux: a big slanting pinch that you can barely fit both hands on; man-handle this a bit and go big with style to a crimp, or if you're a complete bamf, go further around right to the jug utilizing a poor sloper as an intermediate. Rest. Do some magic to the real bomber side pull rest, then get ready for the finger crack next to the last bolt (a good 30' below the anchor). If you can't finagle your fat paws into this tiny crack, do some more magic and high stepping to get into the next section of adventure climbing. Then begins the great unknown overgrown chossfest with hidden jugs (probably hard 10). If you're prepared, you've got a couple of small nuts (to match the big ones that have gotten you this far) and/or a #1 for a few choice placements to keep you safe, as well as some mithril to ward off the trolls and giant spiders that guard the anchors. Good luck; you're gonna need it.

Location

Just left of Looney Toons and right of the half-way bolted project, and Meltdown, consequently. Nice little patch of grass in front for a good belay, down on the lower right side of the wall.

Protection

Bolts and small nuts (or C3s, small tcus, as in purple and blue, or blue/green aliens, but nuts are preferable), and/or #1.

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